ENFORCE - Extreme responses using NewWave: Forces, Overtopping and Run-up in Coastal Engineering

Lead Research Organisation: University of Oxford
Department Name: Engineering Science

Abstract

In the UK there is a significant amount of infrastructure located at or close to the coast, some of it highly vulnerable to relatively small wave events as well as extreme storm events. Most published coastal studies, and hence guidance documents, are based on the prediction of average quantities such as overtopping rates per hour. Whilst these are undoubtedly useful for estimating drainage requirements and for making flood predictions if the inland drainage is inadequate or becomes blocked, they give little insight into the damage that may be caused by a single extreme overtopping or impulse event, which could cause global structural failure of sea defence works.

This project addresses the problem of the most extreme responses at the coast, whether this is wave run-up, overtopping volume or impulse on a section of sea defence works. We aim to understand and model the individual largest and most damaging waves within a long random sequence of severe waves hitting the coast - a storm consisting of thousands of individual waves. We will use the idea of localised groups of large waves to model the most severe waves that arise by chance in a storm. Detailed comparisons will be made between waves in the new flume at Plymouth University and a recently developed computer model OXBOU, all underpinned by analysis of waves at 2 locations off the British coast.

Planned Impact

How will the impacts be achieved and what will be done to engage potential beneficiaries?

Fundamental to the success of the research is a strong collaboration between the project partners and engagement with stakeholders to provide important results in the most useable form.

In the UK there is a significant amount of infrastructure located at or close to the coast, some of it highly vulnerable to relatively small wave events as well as extreme storm events. Most published overtopping studies, and hence guidance documents, are based on the prediction of average overtopping rates per hour. Whilst these are undoubtedly useful for estimating drainage requirements and making flood predictions if the drainage is inadequate or becomes blocked, they give little insight into the damage that may be caused by a single extreme overtopping or impulse event, which could cause global structural failure of sea defence works.

This project addresses the question of the extreme response, whether this is wave run-up, overtopping volume or impulse, in the context of the individual largest and most damaging waves within a long random sequence of severe waves - a storm event. Hence, this work may lead to important insights of great benefit to those who have responsibility for protection of coastlines (DEFRA, Environment Agency, Local Authorities with coastlines, English Nature, Water authorities, and engineering consultancies such as Halcrow and HR Wallingford). Results of this work would also be beneficial for the worldwide community of coastal engineers (both academic researchers and industrial practitioners) interested in the fundamentals of wave action.

Dissemination activities will include publication of the research findings in leading international journals, and participation by ENFORCE researchers in international conferences and UK meetings. Engagement with learned societies will occur through the Society of Underwater Technology via their SUTGEF group, currently chaired by the P-I Prof Taylor. This is an obvious route for regular informal presentations to civil engineering academics, graduate students, professional oceanographers, professional coastal engineers etc. We also envisage a one day mini-symposium at the end of this project to provide a launch-pad for our main results, to which DEFRA, the Environment Agency, Local Authorities with coastlines, English Nature, Water authorities, engineering consultancies, civil engineering academics etc. would be invited. This may be run under the auspices of the Marine Institute (http://www.plymouth.ac.uk/marine), which comprises 3,000 marine-related academic staff, researchers and students.

The experiments at Plymouth and computer-generated movies of the simulations will make excellent material for university open days etc. to engage the interest of visiting school groups - exciting the interest of the next generation of engineers.
 
Description We have looked at the time histories of individual waves on shallow water as measured by two buoys off the Cornish coast (during the storms which did so much damage including cutting the railway at Dawlish). This work has shown that the average shape of the incoming waves matches a model used in offshore engineering but first introduced into coastal engineering in this project.

We have shown that the type of paddle signal used to drive waves in laboratory wave flumes and basins is key to obtaining accurate estimates of key extreme coastal responses such as wave run-up and over-topping of sea-defences. The rather crude linear approximations currently used in almost all laboratory estimates lead to over-prediction of extreme responses by a significant amount. Such estimates are used to inform coastal defence design guids.
Exploitation Route The use of a focussed wave group for testing in wave tanks, and ultimately for the design of coastal defences, should lead to the reduction in uncertainty in extreme coastal responses (wave run-up, overtopping volume etc.).

We have now produced a substantial series of academic papers documenting our findings - the final paper on overtopping and forces on a sloping sea-wall) has recently been published in Coastal Engineering. We are intending to write and then publish a briefing note for the coastal engineering community (a CIRIA note) outlining our new approach and engage with the Environmental Agency, consultants etc.
Sectors Aerospace, Defence and Marine,Construction,Environment

 
Description Dissemination meetings (Plymouth and Oxford) 
Form Of Engagement Activity Participation in an activity, workshop or similar
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach Regional
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact Presented the outcomes of our research on the use of localised wave groups for physical experiments and computer modelling of violent coastal processes such as extreme wave run-up on beaches, overtopping sea-walls and forces on sloping sea-walls. As a results there has been considerable interest of both the academic community and coastal engineering consultants.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2015,2016