MORPHINE: Re-designing the coast: The Morphodynamics of Large Bodies of Sediment in a Macro-tidal Environment
Lead Research Organisation:
Swansea University
Department Name: College of Engineering
Abstract
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People |
ORCID iD |
| Dominic Reeve (Principal Investigator) | |
| Yuzhi Cai (Co-Investigator) |
Publications
Valsamidis, A
(2017)
ON THE MORPHODYNAMIC EVOLUTION OF MEGA -NOURISHMENTS
Valsamidis A
(2022)
Simulation of Wave Time Series with a Vector Autoregressive Method
in Water
Valsamidis A
(2020)
A new approach to analytical modelling of groyne fields
in Continental Shelf Research
Valsamidis A
(2017)
Modelling shoreline evolution in the vicinity of a groyne and a river
in Continental Shelf Research
Valsamidis A
(2021)
Modelling the morphodynamic evolution of Galveston beach, Gulf of Mexico, following Hurricane Ike in 2008
in Continental Shelf Research
| Description | We have demonstrated a 'proof of concept' technique for creating multiple wave sequences (height, period and direction) with identical statistical characteristics as a reference (measured) sequence. The artificial sequences of wave heights, periods and directions have the same probability distributions and 'memory', relative rate of change, as the reference information. We have developed new techniques for modelling beach changes due to large courses or sinks of sediment as well as the effect of multiple groynes (groyne fields). The methods are based on analytical solutions of the 1-line equation, so called because it predicts the position of a single height contour, typically the low water mark. The 1-line model is a highly-simplified representation of reality but has met with remarkable success, to the extent that it is used widely around the world by practitioners to design beach protection measures, coastal flood protection and land reclamation. Improvements to the 1-line equation will have a world-wide impact as they are taken up by practitioners. Our new solutions have been tested against observations of beaches which have had mega-nourishment and/or extensive groyne fields, with encouraging results. |
| Exploitation Route | The concept could be applied to Monte Carlo modelling in a wide range of field that require correlated variables as inputs. The enhanced range of solutions now possible as a result of this work will provide: an improved range of cases to test computational versions of the 1-line model, of interest to academics and practitioners; computationally efficient means to assess the impact of beach nourishments and groyne fields. Future developments of interest to practitioners include accounting for mixes of sediment and the effects of tides. |
| Sectors | Aerospace, Defence and Marine,Construction,Education,Energy,Environment |
| Description | Professors Dodd and Reeve provided brief technical advice to the Royal HaskoningDHV team responsible for the Bacton sandscaping project regarding the sediment composition of proposed sand nourishment and the limitations of current modelling tools. The stochastic modelling tasks were completed to the initial stages of implementation and testing. A journal paper on the technique has recently been published (Valsamidis et al 2022). The new modelling techniques have been reported at an international conference (Coastal Sediments 2019, Tampa, Florida), for large nourishments, and a paper in Continental Shelf Research for groyne fields (Valsamidis & Reeve 2020). Applications of the method have been presented at 5th International Conference on Ocean Engineering, 2019, (Mauritius), for the Zandmotor, and as a paper in Continental Shelf Research for Galveston, (Valsamidis & Reeve 2021). The conferences were attended by a combination of academics and engineering professionals. The testing of the model against actual field measurements taken over several years at Galveston beach provided an unrivalled opportunity to test the model against a case of beach response after the landfall of Hurricane Ike in 2008, together with nourishments and a complex arrangement of groyne structures. Our modelling results have been disseminated to the Galveston Town administration and are informing the ongoing beach monitoring programme. |
| First Year Of Impact | 2017 |
| Sector | Construction,Energy,Environment |
| Impact Types | Societal,Economic |
| Description | Collaboration with Texas A & M University |
| Organisation | Texas A&M University |
| Country | United States |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | Project post-doc Dr Valsamidis visited Prof Jens Figlus at Texas A&M University Galveston to discuss the major beach renourishment scheme there. Dr Valsamidis is extending an existing beach model to try to replicate the observed changes in beach morphology at Galveston. |
| Collaborator Contribution | Prof Figlus made several beach surveys available to the project to assist in model chekcing and validation. One of his PhD students visited Swansea in November 2017 to discuss and update the surveys. |
| Impact | None yet as it is early in th ecollaboration. |
| Start Year | 2017 |
| Description | ITB - ICMSE Lecture |
| Organisation | Bandung Institute of Technology |
| Country | Indonesia |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | In October 2018 I visited Dr Magdalena (Department of Mathematics, Institut Teknologi Bandung, Indonesia), to give an invited lecture on 'Applying mathematics to the problem of coastal protection', as part of the 5th International Conference on Mathematics, Science and Education (ICMSE), Universitas Negeri Semarang, Bali, Indonesia. The work we are undertaking as part of the MORPHINE project formed an integral part of the talk. |
| Collaborator Contribution | The extended an Speaker invitation to me and hosted my visit. |
| Impact | One student from ITB had a 2 week visit to Swansea to undertake some experiments in our wave tank. Two papers, coauthored with Dr Magdalena and her students, are now in preparation. |
| Start Year | 2018 |
| Description | Royal HaskoningDHV - beach sandscaping |
| Organisation | Royal HaskoningDHV |
| Country | Netherlands |
| Sector | Private |
| PI Contribution | On Aug 21st, 2018 Prof Dodd and Prof Reeve met with a senior representative of Royal Haskong DHV at the University of Nottingham to discuss possible implementations of sandscaping solutions at various representative locations (i.e. scenarios). Discussions included the kinds of possible implementations, and the stability concept. |
| Collaborator Contribution | We provided technical advice relating to sandscaping at Bacton. |
| Impact | none to date |
| Start Year | 2017 |