NSFGEO-NERC Scattering of ocean surface gravity waves by submesoscale turbulence
Lead Research Organisation:
University of Edinburgh
Department Name: Sch of Mathematics
Abstract
Random scattering, refraction and focussing of ocean surface gravity waves (SGWs) by submesoscale currents result in spatial modulation - "patches'' - in the wave field. A signature of patches is that the significant wave height Hs varies by as much as 30% on horizontal scales in the range 10 to 100 km and time scales of a few hours to a day; these scales reflect those of submesoscale currents and are much smaller than those of the wind-stress forcing of SGWs which is traditionally assumed to control the spatio-temporal variability of Hs. As a result, patches pose a major challenge for the modelling and prediction of SGWs and of their impact on the ocean circulation. This project will tackle this challenge by developing new statistical models of the scattering of SGWs by submesoscale turbulence. We will use these models to explain the main features of patch variability, including a recently discovered relation between the power spectrum of Hs and the submesoscale kinetic energy spectrum, and to develop a parametrization of SGW scattering by submesoscale turbulence that we will incorporate into WAVEWATCH III.
Spatial and temporal fluctuations in Hs are reflected in other properties of the SGW field including the Stokes velocity, and hence the wave-averaged vortex and Stokes-Coriolis forces which control the forcing of currents by SGWs. We will investigate the hypothesis that the interaction between waves and mean flows is strong on patch time and space scales, and develop new modeling tools tailored to these scales.
Spatial and temporal fluctuations in Hs are reflected in other properties of the SGW field including the Stokes velocity, and hence the wave-averaged vortex and Stokes-Coriolis forces which control the forcing of currents by SGWs. We will investigate the hypothesis that the interaction between waves and mean flows is strong on patch time and space scales, and develop new modeling tools tailored to these scales.
Publications
Gilbert A
(2025)
Geometric Approaches to Lagrangian Averaging
in Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics
Wang H
(2023)
Scattering of swell by currents
in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Kafiabad H
(2023)
Computing Lagrangian means
in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Cox M
(2023)
Inertia-gravity-wave diffusion by geostrophic turbulence: the impact of flow time dependence
in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Vanneste J
(2022)
Stokes drift and its discontents.
in Philosophical transactions. Series A, Mathematical, physical, and engineering sciences
Vanneste J
(2022)
Stokes drift and its discontents
Wang H
(2023)
Scattering of swell by currents
Kafiabad H
(2022)
Computing Lagrangian means
| Description | We have developed a new method, termed U2H map, which makes it possible to infer the significant wave height of the ocean (a measure of the wave energy at a given location) from knowledge of the ocean currents. This gives a quick way of assessing the impact of ocean currents on surface waves. It also explains several observations made in the literature about this impact. |
| Exploitation Route | The method developed can be used by others to replace much more costly (in time and computational power) wave models. This is particularly useful to interpret recent satellite observations of significant wave height. |
| Sectors | Environment |
| Description | Mecator Fellow of the DFG Research Centre TRR181 'Energy transfer in atmosphere and ocean' |
| Organisation | University of Hamburg |
| Country | Germany |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | As a result of the work on wave scattering funded by the grant, I was invited to be part of the DGF Research Centre TRR181 'Energy transfer in atmosphere and ocean' as a Mercator Fellow. This gives me access to all future activities of the research centre as well as some funding to attend these activities. |
| Collaborator Contribution | We are currently interacting on a project about ocean diffusivities, with the partner supervising 2 MSc thesis on the topic. |
| Impact | NA |
| Start Year | 2020 |
| Title | The U2H map |
| Description | Fast numerical computation of significant wave height anomaly for arbitrary currents and background wave spectrum. |
| Type Of Technology | Software |
| Year Produced | 2025 |
| Impact | Use to analyse SWOT significant wave height data. |
| URL | https://cocalc.com/Cambridge/S0022112024009649/JFM-Notebooks/files/The%20U2H%20map.ipynb |
| Description | Collaboration with ICMS Music Fellow |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | Local |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | Collaboration with ICMS Music Fellow Julien Lonchamp who composed a 20 min piece for 7 instruments based on discussions with mathematicians. A movement of the piece is inspired by multi scale interactions in the ocean. The piece was performed at a dedicated concert in the Reid Music Hall, Edinburgh on 26 Oct 2026. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://soundcloud.com/julienlonchamp/resonance-live-apostrophe-ensemble |
