Bio-Couture - growing bacterial-cellulose for use in clothing
Lead Research Organisation:
University of the Arts London
Department Name: Central Saint Martin's College
Abstract
Bio-Couture is an innovative project to grow a material for fashion. It unites fashion/textile design with bio/nanotechnologies. The research will use harmless bacteria to produce, spin and simultaneously shape pure cellulose fibres into a material. A series of design and scientific tests will establish to what extent the material handles, drapes, prints, dyes, sews etc. and how it performs when worn on the body. A time-lapse film will be created to show the growth process and a sample fashion collection of 6 garments will be created from the grown bacterial-cellulose to explore the material's qualities and suitability for clothing. The finished garments and film will be exhibited to the public.
A key driver of contemporary textile innovation for fashion is the need to find new sustainable fibres and production techniques that contribute towards biodegradable garments and close the cycle of production, disposal and reuse. Bio/nanotechnologies are also at the forefront of new textile developments that seek to offer the customer added value through performance finishes. Many of today's textiles are made from plant-based forms of cellulose such as cotton, hemp, wood or manmade derivatives. Bacterial or microbial-cellulose however, is produced when bacteria feed on a sugar solution - it is entirely sustainable and biodegradable. Bacterial-cellulose is commercially reduced for a variety of uses and industries; in Indonesia they flavour it with coconut water and eat as a sweet, while in Japan Sony compress it to form a super-sensitive hi-fi speaker membrane.
Bio-Couture is a speculative, design-led investigation to determine whether bacterial-cellulose might be of value to apparel. Over the project's duration collaboration between designer, scientist and supporting research assistant will test the material qualities through on going scientific and creative experiments. While much is understood about the material already, this research will produce new knowledge that explores bacterial-cellulose in a new context: fashion/textiles. Bio-Couture seeks to discover in what ways the material qualities dictate its application to fashion design - to what extent does it limit or suggest specific design features? For what type of garment is it best suited -delicates? outerwear?
Bio-Couture is a timely project that fits into a wider field of research that is currently exploring biotechnology techniques to manufacture living materials for art and design. Unlike other contemporary research however, which is culturing human tissue for consumer products, Bio-Couture is entirely vegetable and therefore not subject to the same ethical concerns. Using fashion as a vehicle, the creative potential of technological and scientific collaboration is revealed in an artistic design context.
It is anticipated that the innovative nature of the project will engage with fields as diverse as art, fashion, textiles, materials science, bio and nanotechnology. The research findings will be shared with academia/industry at the biennial international Textile conference; Avantex 2007. The research will culminate with the grown garments being exhibited along with a time-lapse film illustrating bacteria literally spinning the 'cloth'. This would be shown in venues that reach the widest possible audiences, firstly during London Fashion Week, an event that receives wide interactional media coverage and secondly, cultural venues that communicate aspects of art and science. The Institute of Contemporary Art in London have confirmed that they want to host the exhibition in 2007 along with a public talks programme and the Science Museum in London have also expressed an interest which is currently being pursued.
A key driver of contemporary textile innovation for fashion is the need to find new sustainable fibres and production techniques that contribute towards biodegradable garments and close the cycle of production, disposal and reuse. Bio/nanotechnologies are also at the forefront of new textile developments that seek to offer the customer added value through performance finishes. Many of today's textiles are made from plant-based forms of cellulose such as cotton, hemp, wood or manmade derivatives. Bacterial or microbial-cellulose however, is produced when bacteria feed on a sugar solution - it is entirely sustainable and biodegradable. Bacterial-cellulose is commercially reduced for a variety of uses and industries; in Indonesia they flavour it with coconut water and eat as a sweet, while in Japan Sony compress it to form a super-sensitive hi-fi speaker membrane.
Bio-Couture is a speculative, design-led investigation to determine whether bacterial-cellulose might be of value to apparel. Over the project's duration collaboration between designer, scientist and supporting research assistant will test the material qualities through on going scientific and creative experiments. While much is understood about the material already, this research will produce new knowledge that explores bacterial-cellulose in a new context: fashion/textiles. Bio-Couture seeks to discover in what ways the material qualities dictate its application to fashion design - to what extent does it limit or suggest specific design features? For what type of garment is it best suited -delicates? outerwear?
Bio-Couture is a timely project that fits into a wider field of research that is currently exploring biotechnology techniques to manufacture living materials for art and design. Unlike other contemporary research however, which is culturing human tissue for consumer products, Bio-Couture is entirely vegetable and therefore not subject to the same ethical concerns. Using fashion as a vehicle, the creative potential of technological and scientific collaboration is revealed in an artistic design context.
It is anticipated that the innovative nature of the project will engage with fields as diverse as art, fashion, textiles, materials science, bio and nanotechnology. The research findings will be shared with academia/industry at the biennial international Textile conference; Avantex 2007. The research will culminate with the grown garments being exhibited along with a time-lapse film illustrating bacteria literally spinning the 'cloth'. This would be shown in venues that reach the widest possible audiences, firstly during London Fashion Week, an event that receives wide interactional media coverage and secondly, cultural venues that communicate aspects of art and science. The Institute of Contemporary Art in London have confirmed that they want to host the exhibition in 2007 along with a public talks programme and the Science Museum in London have also expressed an interest which is currently being pursued.
People |
ORCID iD |
| Suzanne Lee (Principal Investigator) | |
| Esther Mena (Researcher) |