Industrial Exploitation of Laser-Dyeing Processes for Apparel and Furnishing Textiles Markets
Lead Research Organisation:
De Montfort University
Department Name: School of Design
Abstract
The AHRC funded Laser Enhanced Biotechnology for Textile Design (LEBIOTEX, Grant Ref: AH/J002666/1, 30 June 2012 to 29 June 2015) project resulted in the realisation of a method for dyeing and patterning textile surfaces in one step using CO2 laser technology. This technique is termed 'peri-dyeing' and involves applying dye locally to the surface of a textile substrate followed by laser irradiation. The dye diffusion and reaction takes place at the point of laser interaction. The novel technique offers digital design opportunities allowing multi-tonal, multi-colour, photographic and precise linear details with high levels of customisation on both natural and synthetic fibre fabrics (e.g. wool, polyester, nylon). Customised colouration on both fabric and assembled garments, including across seams, enables remote, on-demand, non-contact processing of finished products and offers the potential for fixation of chemicals other than dye (e.g. fire retardants, anti-bacterial) to achieve localised surface modification and functionality. The technique has the potential to make significant savings in energy, water and dye use in comparison with conventional textile colouration and patterning processes. The peri-dyeing process suggests alternative manufacturing and distribution flows that may allow for a more precise, responsive approach to market demands potentially reducing waste stock and enabling a more efficient distribution of goods.
The aim of the proposed follow-on project is to identify and pursue new opportunities to implement and exploit the peri-dyeing technique within different textile sectors, focusing on the potential to apply peri-dyeing directly to garments, fashion and upholstery fabrics. This will enable localised and on-demand surface colouration, three-dimensional patterning and surface modification for both aesthetic appearance and functionality, alongside environmental and cost benefits. The emphasis on working directly with textile industry partners in four different sectors will significantly enhance the impact of the recent LEBIOTEX research.
The aim of the proposed follow-on project is to identify and pursue new opportunities to implement and exploit the peri-dyeing technique within different textile sectors, focusing on the potential to apply peri-dyeing directly to garments, fashion and upholstery fabrics. This will enable localised and on-demand surface colouration, three-dimensional patterning and surface modification for both aesthetic appearance and functionality, alongside environmental and cost benefits. The emphasis on working directly with textile industry partners in four different sectors will significantly enhance the impact of the recent LEBIOTEX research.
Planned Impact
By focusing on both economic and sustainability advantages from the application of peri-dyeing within four textile market sectors, this project initiates new opportunities for impact from the LEBIOTEX project.
The proposed follow-on project will explore the previously unforeseen possibility of applying techniques directly to product blanks and pattern pieces rather than large quantities of fabric prior to garment construction. It pursues the idea that the technique could provide a 're-design' of current models of design and manufacturing for dyeing and surface patterning within the sector. It has the potential to contribute to sustainable innovation by reducing water, chemical and energy use and provide a system that facilitates a responsive on-demand approach further reducing waste in off-cuts and over production.
Through the creation of prototypes, the project will facilitate creative engagement and knowledge exchange between the project team and the project partners, two of whom were not involved in the original LEBIOTEX project. The project will engage new audiences as the proposed activities conducted with each partner will be extended to involve designers, product developers and supply chain managers.
Each of the project partners will benefit from an increased understanding of how the new techniques could be implemented within their current design, manufacturing and supply chain systems and how this implementation could result in environmental advantages and new product design opportunities. This will offer competitive advantage.
The project will benefit from the opportunity to implement and evidence research impact and to explore the potential for commercialisation and acquire an increased understanding of issues around innovation and knowledge transfer.
Dissemination of the work is integral to the project. The outcomes and outputs of the project will be added to the online gallery and website of the LEBIOTEX project (www.dmu.ac.uk/laserenzymetextiles). When appropriate, press releases (DMU, LU and project partners) will be made alongside the publication of industry trade articles (e.g. Draper), conference presentations (e.g. AUTEX, Textile Institute) and journal publications (e.g. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice).
The proposed follow-on project will explore the previously unforeseen possibility of applying techniques directly to product blanks and pattern pieces rather than large quantities of fabric prior to garment construction. It pursues the idea that the technique could provide a 're-design' of current models of design and manufacturing for dyeing and surface patterning within the sector. It has the potential to contribute to sustainable innovation by reducing water, chemical and energy use and provide a system that facilitates a responsive on-demand approach further reducing waste in off-cuts and over production.
Through the creation of prototypes, the project will facilitate creative engagement and knowledge exchange between the project team and the project partners, two of whom were not involved in the original LEBIOTEX project. The project will engage new audiences as the proposed activities conducted with each partner will be extended to involve designers, product developers and supply chain managers.
Each of the project partners will benefit from an increased understanding of how the new techniques could be implemented within their current design, manufacturing and supply chain systems and how this implementation could result in environmental advantages and new product design opportunities. This will offer competitive advantage.
The project will benefit from the opportunity to implement and evidence research impact and to explore the potential for commercialisation and acquire an increased understanding of issues around innovation and knowledge transfer.
Dissemination of the work is integral to the project. The outcomes and outputs of the project will be added to the online gallery and website of the LEBIOTEX project (www.dmu.ac.uk/laserenzymetextiles). When appropriate, press releases (DMU, LU and project partners) will be made alongside the publication of industry trade articles (e.g. Draper), conference presentations (e.g. AUTEX, Textile Institute) and journal publications (e.g. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice).
| Description | Garment production is the second largest global industry and accounts for 7% of the global economy, However, conventional garment manufacturing has negative environmental consequences due to huge energy, effluent and water consumption and high labour intensity, resulting in a high cost of production. The novel Laser-dyeing technology developed was able to apply precision coloration and pattern with laser-controlled depth of shade to multiple fabric constructions including woven narrowband textile components, upholstery fabric, intimate apparel and knitted sportswear textiles. The permanence and durability of the coloration process were assessed through material performance testing procedures, which met with commercial industry standards across all conducted tests. This proved the laser-dyeing technique to be a controllable, transferable coloration and surface design process for textiles with relevance across multiple textile sectors. Consultation across the textile industry identified opportunities to implement laser peri-dyeing within the supply chain to facilitate responsive production, technical innovation and areas for environmental improvement. Prototype sportswear garments were laser-dyed Direct-to-garment (DTG), showcasing the on-demand customisation opportunities afforded by the technique. As an agile, DTG manufacturing system, laser-dyeing may facilitate a more precise, responsive approach to market demands potentially reducing waste stock and enabling a more efficient distribution of textile goods. The process was recognised for its potential to offer economic and sustainability benefits through significant reduction of resources and subsequent textile waste. In order to quantify this, a Lifecycle Assessment was conducted comparing laser-dyeing to a conventional dyeing and printing process. Results showed a significant reduction in the environmental impact of laser-dyeing at lab-scale, with further improvements predicted on development of custom built machinery. The Carbon Footprint of this novel laser-dyeing process has been shown to exceed 50% in all aspects through savings in energy, water and chemical use (and subsequent effluents) during dyeing and surface patterning processes, and also in terms of buying and distribution. This has attracted significant interest from high-street and internet retailers as well as garment and textile manufacturers. The new production and supply chain models based around the laser-dyeing technique were developed in collaboration with the project partners in apparel and furnishing textile sectors. The novel techniques has demonstrated the potential to provide fast response, customisation and prototyping capabilities for textile and garment manufacturers. The techniques could also provide new creative design opportunities for designers and students. |
| Exploitation Route | Loughborough University (LU) are presently participating in the AHRC Creative Hub project and will be featuring the findings in the research here. Further new work is proposed through our academic collaboration between LU and DMU (De Montfort University) and Industrial partners to now extend this work to a demonstration facility to explore the broader aspects of these significant footprint and commercial savings. This new concept for textile surface coloration, the new production and supply chain models are to provide the catalyst to re-home garment manufacture to the UK based on the knowledge engineering this project has leveraged. |
| Sectors | Creative Economy,Education,Environment,Manufacturing, including Industrial Biotechology,Culture, Heritage, Museums and Collections,Retail |
| URL | https://www.dmu.ac.uk/research/centres-institutes/iad/team/innovative-technologies-for-textile-colouration-and-surface-design/innovative-technology-for-textile-colouration-and-surface-design.aspx |
| Description | In part to support the AHRC Creative Hub bid which includes Loughborough University and the further industrial funding of a new PhD student to develop the underpinning theory and rate equations for this novel technology. A new PhD student at De Montfort University was recruited in 2019 to continue the development of Laser technology for textile surface modification. Prototype garments and fabrics were designed and laser-dyed to confirm the viability of the process for each textile sector. Industrial partners have assessed the prototypes of designed products. The novel laser-dyeing process is ready to be implemented by the collaborated industrial partners at the scale of commercial production when the prototype of laser-dyeing equipment and facility are built up. |
| First Year Of Impact | 2018 |
| Sector | Creative Economy,Education,Environment,Manufacturing, including Industrial Biotechology,Culture, Heritage, Museums and Collections,Retail |
| Impact Types | Cultural,Economic |
| Description | Exhibition of Research Innovation at SDC (Society of Dyers and Colourists) Day of Celebration 2019 event at the Merchant Adventurers' Hall in York on 10th May 2019 |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | Exhibition pieces consisting of prototype fabric samples from innovative technologies: enzyme-catalysed coloration and Laser processing. Showcasing the innovative technologies and results developed from the project to the Society of dyers and colourists and design community. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2019 |
| Description | Exhibition of Research Innovation in the Clephan Building at De Montfort University, Leicester, UK, September 2019 - January 2020 |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | Local |
| Primary Audience | Undergraduate students |
| Results and Impact | Exhibition pieces consisting of prototype fabric samples from innovative technologies: enzyme-catalysed coloration and Laser processing. Showcasing the innovative technologies and results developed from the project to universities students, colleagues and design community. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2019,2020 |