Novel Digital Weaving Application Development to Innovate the current Woven Textile Coloration by developing an Optical Yarn Colour Mixing System

This project is aimed to innovate the current woven textile coloration by resolving the existing limitations in Jacquard textile design and manufacture. In conventional modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn colours is limited by the performance characteristics of existing electronic Jacquard machinery. As one or two colours of warp is set in continuous style, colours of an artwork are realised by a small number of weft yarn variety. Therefore, when attempting to reproduce a complex pictorial image, the designer is constrained by a limited selection of colours that can be employed at the same time. However, at present there is no relevant weaving method and colour system available to overcome the current limitation. Therefore, this research is aimed to develop unique/novel digital weaving applications/methods by establishing an optical yarn colour mixing system.

In line with digital technology, prior research (PhD study) by the investigator (PI) has established the interrelationship between shaded weave structures and thread colour mixing effects that could offer an unlimited palette of colours for complex multiple weave colour reproduction. When the four primary colour threads of the CMYK system were juxtaposed in a shaded weave structure format, creating secondary colour ranges were feasible by juxtaposition. The pair combinations of CMY thread are able to expand the colour gamut to secondary colour ranges (i.e, [C]+[M]=[B], [C]+[Y]=[G], [M]+[Y]=[R]) while when the CMY combinations are mixed with black yarn, their chroma levels are varied and controlled. The result of these novel insights is published in the Textile Research Journal (SCI) including the research method in detail relating to weave structure design, weave colour sample production, weave colour analysis and digital weave pattern design of which methodology forms the secure basis for a larger investigation. This digital Jacquard research has been developing last 8 years during which fundamental theories (i.e., subtractive colour system, relevant weave structures and digital weave patterning techniques) have been investigated and tested the potential in this research to overcome the current limitations in woven textile colouration.

Based on the research experience and development, the future development will deepen values of digital Jacquard textiles in understanding the physiological phenomenon of human optical illusion of juxtaposed primary colour yarns for which the collaboration between Loughborough University (LU) and Hong Kong Polytechnique University (HKPU) is highlighted to exchange knowledge for formulating diverse groups of primary yarn colours for establishing an optical yarn colour mixing system. This project will progress through taking six different stages to achieve research goals/aims. High-quality Jacquard sample production is planned in support of HKU to visualise the applied theories and developed weaving techniques/applications so as to communicate with potential audiences/beneficiaries including academics, textile manufactures, textile designers, commercial sectors (product development) and the principal beneficiary, namely, the consumer.

Creative and innovative influences on the current UK woven textile industry: In recent 5 years, as consumers have become aware of the detrimental effects of fast fashion, the demand with a "Made in Britain" label has been rapidly growing once more as it is the definitive sign of high product quality (Make it British, 2014). It indicates that the high-end and niche markets could be the future direction for the UK textile/fashion industry. However, this is an era of rapidly evolving technologies often driven by the digital along with advances in material science and processes, high-end textiles/fashion industry also faces the challenges to respond to the quick turnover of product offered by the fashion industry which invariably is designed in the West, but manufactured in the East. The creation of innovative, high quality and sustainable local production will be the key factor to satisfy high-end market demand and this research proposal is to make a valuable contribution to change current woven textile coloration which will contribute to the necessary competitive edge needed by the UK's textile/fashion industry.

Woven textile design innovation and production efficiency improvements for manufacturers and designers: This research will focus on establishing systemised weave applications/methods. The objective is to produce weaving methods that will be immediately applicable to the current mechanical specifications that can have a direct impact on the current design capability and production efficiency. It will commence by formulating diverse primary yarn colour mixing effects to establish an 'optical yarn colour mixing system' to minimise a number of yarn colours required for multicolour reproduction. Based on the system, digital weave patterning techniques will be developed to maximise a feasible weave colour palette. Novel digital weaving applications/methods will be developed by aligning the yarn colour mixing effects with digital weave patterns which as weave method offers the greatest flexibility in construction and design.

Critical reference for woven textile colouration for textile manufacturers and designers: Investigation on optical yarn colour mixing effects is an entirely new and novel approach that can benefit textile manufacturers and designers. Currently they are challenged by the limited number of colours that can be employed in weave colour reproduction for Jacquard. In this research, however, as it suggests reproducing a much larger weave colour palette with a small number of coloured yarn resources, weave textile manufacturers and designers will recognise the benefits offered by this research. There will be less limitations in applying any number of colours in artwork designs and a feasible colour scope will be measurable at design stage. The colour references will be of great advantage to manufacturers and designers to offer far greater design variety without additional, and in some cases lower, cost.

Commercial values in digital Jacquard textiles for commercial sectors and consumer: A series of high-quality Jacquard sample production is necessary in this research to communicate with a wide audience and to connect with potential partners and beneficiaries. The significance of this research is the exceptional potential that can be achieved by translating the research into a commercial proposition for which concrete examples of the design possibilities will be an important medium to elucidate the complex theories and experiments involved in the research development. Considering the previous successful experiences in presenting the findings, it will be important, through individual consultation and exhibition, to elicit views with regard to the outcomes from a broad constituency of academics, industry and commerce, and the consumer as part of the ongoing pursuit of improvements to the model and its potential a new approach to design colouration.