Developing an Analytical Protocol for Synthetic Organic Textile Dyes for Use in Cultural Heritage Studies

Lead Research Organisation: University of Glasgow
Department Name: School of Culture & Creative Arts

Abstract

The development of the first synthetic dyes in the late 19th century led to a major transformation of the textile dyeing industry. The advent of synthetic dyes opened up the possibility to create new colours, improve fastness and eliminate the reliance of the textile industry on natural
resources, resulting in increased productivity and commercial availability. Studying synthetic pigments in the period of rapid industrial expansion, spanning 1865 until the early 20th century, can provide key information about the behaviours of the industry during this time, and the fashion, creativity and tastes of those who utilised them. One key tool for the study of dyed textile artefacts is analytical textile studies with scientific
methodologies to identify the chemical composition of the dyes (1-3). The information obtained from these studies can give evidence about how an artefact was made and in turn provide clues about the history, provenance and value of an object, and how best to preserve and conserve artefacts with respect to their chemical requirements and history. The majority of research to date has considered the analysis of artefacts dyed with natural dyes. However, as the heritage significance of synthetically dyed artefacts of the 19th and early 20th centuries increase, raise curatorial questions and require conservation, synthetic textile dye studies are increasingly necessary and important.

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