Re-dressing Ageism in Fashion

Lead Research Organisation: University of Kent
Department Name: Sch of Psychology

Abstract

Ageism in the fashion industry is widespread and costly to businesses, consumers, and wider society. Consumers feel excluded from mainstream fashion because ageing is not reflected positively, if at all, in the industry or in the imagery we see in magazines and adverts. The industry defines what we should wear by shaping what we think and feel is age-appropriate. This restricts people's choices and makes it hard for people to express themselves through mediums of fashion (clothing, dress, hairstyles & make-up) in a way that makes them feel good about their age. Businesses lose out by failing to cater to the aesthetic needs and desires of an ageing population who want to look and feel good. This project wants to re-dress ageism in fashion by, 1) raising awareness with fashion brands and wider industry businesses of ageism, and the ways it manifests in the industry; 2) understanding and providing innovative solutions to the challenges businesses face in addressing ageism, such as how to diversify imagery by using older models in a way that retains a brands image and appeal and doesn't alienate younger consumers. This will benefit consumers by increasing choice and freedom to express who they are, and crucially, feel good about it, no matter what their age. It will benefit businesses by opening up to new markets and customers, and it will benefit wider society by reducing anti-ageing narratives and imagery, which perpetuate negative attitudes and stereotypes that underpin ageism in society.

Publications

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Description We set out to understand how fashion businesses and persons working in fashion and the related beauty industry view and experience ageism. To find suitable people and businesses to discuss this with, we set up a website and Instagram account. We learned quickly that we needed to align ourselves as allies with the fashion industry rather than critics. We conducted a review of the literature and developed a survey for industry professionals to complete asking them about their experiences of ageism in the industry and what challenges the industry faces in trying to address ageism. We corroborated our initial investigations and learnings from the fashion brand The Bias Cut, that ageism exists in the fashion industry and that businesses face several challenges. Challenges for customers center on women feeling invisible, excluded, and stigmatized by the industry. Specifically, our review of the evidence suggests that women report there is a lack of role models in the industry, clothes don't reflect ageing body shapes and shopping experiences result in low mood and self-esteem. Challenges for fashion brands focus on how to understand and attract older consumers and cater to their needs. Specifically, there is an 'age blindness' and lack of awareness in the industry when it comes to older consumers, while brands that are aware struggle to reach older markets without stigmatizing and alienating younger customers.

We are following up on these findings with interviews with relevant industry professionals. We have found suitable experts in the field that includes fashion brands that are oriented toward older customers and/or customers of all ages, specialist advertising and marketing firms that explore and segment older consumer markets, and fashion influencers. We have extended the project end date and will engage in this work shortly. The findings from this aspect of the project will raise awareness of the problem of ageism in fashion for consumers and brands and uncover good practices in the industry that can be shared. At the same time, we have been conducting experimental research exploring one potential solution to ageism in fashion, which is to diversify the age of models wearing fashionable clothes. We have found that the age of the model doesn't necessarily impact how fashionable the clothes are perceived to be, which is good news for fashion brands who are worried about the impact of diversifying models on their brand image.
Exploitation Route The full interviews with professionals in the fashion industry will uncover how businesses in the fashion industry think, feel, and act on ageism in the industry. It will seek to verify and extend our initial understanding of ageism in the fashion industry which we have learned through our project partner, the fashion brand, The Bias Cut. It will also uncover good practices and potential solutions to tackling the problem of ageism in fashion, which can be highlighted and shared with wider industry professionals. During the project, we have identified a number of relevant stakeholders interested in understanding ageism in fashion and interested in how to tackle it. These include fashion brands, advertising, marketing, and communication businesses, forecasting and trend insights organizations, academics, and campaign movements that will be able to use the findings to further understand the problems of ageism in fashion, as well as learn about the good practices happening across the industry. This work can inform the next steps to change the culture and shift attitudes to age in fashion. The findings can also be used to inform the Centre for Ageing Better's campaign to end ageism, which is launching in 2023.
Sectors Creative Economy,Leisure Activities, including Sports, Recreation and Tourism,Retail

URL https://www.redressingageism.com/
 
Description Community of Practice 
Form Of Engagement Activity Participation in an activity, workshop or similar
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach National
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact Raising awareness of the Redressing Ageism in Fashion project and receiving feedback and insights from practitioners and public
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
 
Description Conference presentation 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach National
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact 100 people attended a symposium raising awareness on the UKRI Catalyst funding opportunity. I shared my experience applying for the grant and what I learned with a view to encouraging others to apply.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
 
Description Open days 
Form Of Engagement Activity Participation in an open day or visit at my research institution
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach Regional
Primary Audience Schools
Results and Impact Over 100 students and a similar number of parents have visited the University of Kent Psychology open days, over 2 events, where I have reported on the Redressing Ageism in Fashion project. Students reported increased interest in the area of social psychology and parents reported the subject area enlightened them to the ways ageism manifests in society
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
 
Description Public engagement 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach Local
Primary Audience Public/other audiences
Results and Impact 40 members of the local branch of the British Federation of Women Graduates attended a talk on the Redressing Ageism in Fashion project, which sparked a discussion that informed aspects of the project - insights into experiences of ageism in fashion and helping to define the issues the project should address.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
 
Description Public engagement website 
Form Of Engagement Activity Engagement focused website, blog or social media channel
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach International
Primary Audience Public/other audiences
Results and Impact Website to legitimize the project, raise awareness and share information and project updates. It's being used to capture relevant audiences required for the research.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022,2023
URL https://www.redressingageism.com/
 
Description UKRI panel discussion 
Form Of Engagement Activity A formal working group, expert panel or dialogue
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach National
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact A couple of hundred people attended a UKRI conference on the healthy ageing challenge to share knowledge, and research findings and discuss future research challenges.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
URL https://www.healthyageinguk.co.uk/2022/