Reimagining knitting: a community prospective

Lead Research Organisation: University of Southampton
Department Name: Sch of Humanities

Abstract

The University of Southampton is home to world class knitting collections, which includes the Knitting Reference Library (KRL - https://www.southampton.ac.uk/intheloop/knitting-reference-library.page) that has works dating back to 1840. The Knitting Reference Library represent an extraordinary historical, geographical and disciplinary range, including knitted objects, books, exhibition catalogues, knitting patterns, journals, magazines, photographs, postcards, personal papers ranging from the everyday and kitsch to the historical and technical. At present only a small portion of this collection is available to the communities that have demonstrated an interest in them. The objects collected by Montse Stanley, for example, are held in Southampton Special Collections, due to their fragility, and are not easily made accessible to community spaces (e.g. meeting halls, home, or places where knitters are meeting). In addition, Southampton has also hosted six interdisciplinary and international 'In the Loop' conferences that use the collection as a springboard for knitting scholarship and as a medium to engage the knitting community.

After last conference, the local community of knitters reported an interest in supporting the University to make the collection more inclusive bridging the divide between academic and public activities and knowledges.

The project will rectify this by using the additional capability provided by the AHRC CapCo award to create an innovative 3d collection that will allow creative practitioners to engage with the material construction and format of objects within this library. Established methodologies such as photogrammetry, laser scanning and Reflectance Transformation Imaging will be used to create interactive 3d models and replicas of the objects the community can engage and experiment with. This engagement will be facilitated by a series of co-designed workshops, supported by creative practitioners, academic researchers and an oral historian, which will allow the local community to re-interpret the collection. The collection will be opened up to new conceptual, material, historical, narrative, and biographical resonances. We will then integrate these findings themselves back into the current online collections, in order to produce a rich and user-led permanent collection.

The local knitting communities involved in the project includes Knit the Walls, the Women's Integration Group and the Southampton Student Union society Hookers, Knitters and Stitchers as established and inclusive group with different level of expertise.

Publications

10 25 50
 
Title 3d recorded objects collections 
Description The collection is formed by the virtual recording of 27 selected knitted objects part of the knitting collection used for the projects. Each artefact has been recorded using photogrammetry or a laser scanner to obtain the more accurate digital model. 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact The creation of the collection has helped to stimulate significant engagement from the community of researchers and the wider public already familiar with the other digitised (but less interactive) material already part of the knitting collections. The researchers and the public have positively welcomed the creation of this interactive pilot as a way to experience the materiality of the object in a different and unexpected way. The wider public has also been open to increase the current collaboration with the library and offered to support future targeted digitisation suggesting which artefacts interest the wider community of knitters. 
URL https://viewer.soton.ac.uk/collections/3dknit
 
Title Reimagining Knitting: A Virtual Exhibition 
Description The Reimaging Knitting project allowed us to significantly extend the reach of our engagement work with the knitting community. This included engagement with a range of researchers, knitters, artists and an oral historian. In turn it stimulated the production of a co-designed digital exhibition with artefacts selected by the community that have been used as inspirations for the production of new physically knitted objects. 
Type Of Art Artistic/Creative Exhibition 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact This co-design digital exhibition has permanently enriched the existing Knitting Reference Library (KRL) with insights and perspective providing an alternative narrative to the one already offered by the Archivist. This community led narrative approach offered a democratisation of the KRL and the opportunity to link for the first time items in the collection to their community led interpretation. 
URL https://viewer.soton.ac.uk/narrate/u/b39cb3f9-1145-4fe9-bb8f-7add316c52f5/narratives/8dae80df-a58a-4...
 
Description The project set out to expand the reference collection including some items that are not normally accessible to the public in different formats (from 3D models to 3D printed replicas), to develop of an online exhibition co-created by the community representing alternative narratives to the one traditionally proposed by curators, recognising expertise and contribution from all members, and to transform the Knitting reference Library into a more inclusive and responsive collection. The project achieved all of these goals, and expanded the existing community network that far exceeded the plans for the project.

During the initial capacity building phase, a digital reference collection contained 3d models created using photogrammetry, laser scanner and RTI was created and 3D replicas also were printed. Materials different in colour, weight and flexibility were used to offer different tactile experiences. Items digitised were selected based on relevance to the theme of sustainability, community interest and provided a selection of different objects and material to be the central focus of the workshops and online engagement. The project examined how different materials used in 3D printed replicas might have impacted users perception of the object and might have facilitated the interaction with it.

The two workshops led by an artist and an oral historians invited the community of knitters and researchers to explore, decompose, mix and re-create the objects based on their own skills, interests, background. Memories, impressions and reflections were shared and collected to form the co-designed digital exhibition part of the dissemination. In addition to the in person event, an online campaign was launches to reach a wider audience. As a final step, the symposium led by two academics represented an ideal setting for the community of knitters to discuss the joint digital exhibition, reflect on the opportunities (increased access to the collection and direct influence on future digitisation) and challenges (e.g. different maternity between original object and 3D printed replica) provided by different technologies and how this project contributed to reduce the divide between 'us' and 'them'.

Collaborations between knitters, artists, researchers, librarian and archivists continue with the planning of next community-led "In the Loop" conference where the outcomes of this project will represent the starting point for the event programme.
Exploitation Route Community engagement has continued since the project completed with the Digital library providing access to all the data collected. The community of knitters has also established a direct link with the library to request the 3D recording of specific objects of interest. The project undertook public outreach activities, and outreach within the University of Southampton which demonstrated further interest in the use of the recording and 3d printing technologies by private as much as in libraries, archives and for educational purposes. In addition the replica of patterns part of the 3d objects is increasing their re-use in modern knitwear.
Sectors Creative Economy,Culture, Heritage, Museums and Collections

URL https://viewer.soton.ac.uk/narrate/u/b39cb3f9-1145-4fe9-bb8f-7add316c52f5/narratives/8dae80df-a58a-4e8a-9efe-1cf4a521ecb6
 
Description The findings to date include an increase engagement with the collection from artists and the community of knitters who took part in the workshop. The 3D models and 3D printed replicas created during the project have been used in teaching and other outreach activities, while patters from the 3D models has been used as inspiration in the creation of contemporary knitwear for medical use.
First Year Of Impact 2022
Sector Creative Economy,Education,Culture, Heritage, Museums and Collections
Impact Types Cultural

 
Description Training in 3D recording for Library and Archive professionals
Geographic Reach Local/Municipal/Regional 
Policy Influence Type Influenced training of practitioners or researchers
Impact The training offered increased demand for this type of recording across different collections. To date, an additional collection has been digitised and a permanent position as 3D specialist has been created in the Library. This new post will fully embed digital recording methodologies creating new workflows enhancing existing digital collections.
 
Title Knitted object Capture 
Description The project captured 79 objects part of the The Knitting Reference Library (KRL). All of them where unpublished and only discoverable via catalogue record or visiting directly the Archives located at Winchester School of Arts and at the University of Southampton, Hartley Library. 
Type Of Material Database/Collection of data 
Year Produced 2023 
Provided To Others? Yes  
Impact A unique collection available for researchers worldwide and anyone interested in knitting - a key component of the project. 
URL https://viewer.soton.ac.uk/collections/wsa-knitted-material?page=0
 
Title Laser Scanner and Photogrammetry capture 
Description Created 3D data models from the Knitting Reference Library (KRL) collections based at Winchester School (20 objects) of Art and Southampton Archives and Special Collections (7 objects). The models created represent a selection carefully identified by the knitting community as key items of interest. 
Type Of Material Database/Collection of data 
Year Produced 2022 
Provided To Others? Yes  
Impact Over 27 highly detailed models of knitted objects are not accessible online and available to download by everyone. 
URL https://viewer.soton.ac.uk/collections/3dknit
 
Title RTI Capture 
Description This collection include the RTI of all the objected selected as part of the laser scanner and photogrammetry collection, extending the test of digital representation to RTI work. It also provided the opportunity to test a different type of interaction with researchers and knitters. 
Type Of Material Database/Collection of data 
Year Produced 2023 
Provided To Others? Yes  
Impact Unique collection allowing researchers and knitters to explore the object virtually in more details the objects and facilitated the conversation with knitters and researchers during the events. 
URL https://viewer.soton.ac.uk/collections/knitting
 
Description BBC New Thinking: Preserving Our Heritage podcast 
Form Of Engagement Activity A broadcast e.g. TV/radio/film/podcast (other than news/press)
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach National
Primary Audience Public/other audiences
Results and Impact Took part to the BBC radio 3 podcast "New Thinking: Preserving Our Heritage" on the World Heritage Day. The Podcast was played on BBC Radio 3 and is still available on the BBC website. It sparked interest as I have received over 10 request from the general public who wanted to know more about the collection or wanted to participate to one of the events.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
URL https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0c21ctn
 
Description Knitting symposium 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach Local
Primary Audience Study participants or study members
Results and Impact 30 people attended to the symposium where preliminary outcomes were presented. This sparked further questions and discussion on the future of the collection and further potential funding proposals. The afternoon session was also beneficial to identify with the wider community of knitters the themes and format for the next "In the Loop" conference.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023
URL https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/knitting-symposium-tickets-488760374437
 
Description Reimagining knitting workshop 
Form Of Engagement Activity Participation in an activity, workshop or similar
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach Regional
Primary Audience Public/other audiences
Results and Impact The two workshops took place in October and November and were facilitated by an artist and an oral historian. The primary aim was to explore how interactive 3d models and 3d printer replicas of selected items from the Knitting Reference Library (KRL) could make collections more accessible and support the creation of new narratives led by the community of knitters. The two workshops informed the audience about the application of new technology in the library context, led to the co-creation of the digital exhibition and sparked discussion about the change in materiality between the physical and digital collections.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022
URL https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/reimagining-knitting-a-community-prospective-tickets-431569133897?aff...
 
Description University of Southampton Open & Visit Days 
Form Of Engagement Activity Participation in an open day or visit at my research institution
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach National
Primary Audience Undergraduate students
Results and Impact Over 1000 prospective students and their parents have interacted with the 3D replicas during 3 Open and 2 Visit days organised by the University of Southampton. As result, over 100 prospective Art students visiting Winchester School of Art have requested more information about the collection and the projects.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2022