📣 Help Shape the Future of UKRI's Gateway to Research (GtR)

We're improving UKRI's Gateway to Research and are seeking your input! If you would be interested in being interviewed about the improvements we're making and to have your say about how we can make GtR more user-friendly, impactful, and effective for the Research and Innovation community, please email gateway@ukri.org.

Bioinspired Design: Unforeseen Pathways to impact arising from AHRC funded Bioinspired Textiles Research

Lead Research Organisation: University of the Arts London
Department Name: London College of Fashion

Abstract

This project addresses unforeseen pathways to impact by sharing insights and findings arising from the AHRC Leadership Fellow Bid, 'Bio-Inspired Textiles (BIT)' with new design communities and non-academic product design audiences. The overall aim of the BIT project has been 'to determine if biomimetic principles can be drawn upon: to advance sustainable textile design and production processes; to positively contribute to the circular economy; and to consequently develop an accessible framework as a template for the wider dissemination of biomimetic textile design practices as state of the art (SoA)'.
The BIT framework connects information from a comprehensive review of Biological Structural Design Elements (BSDE) led by Naleway (2015), intended for a material science audience, with processes and techniques specific to the textile disciplines using communication design and storytelling. Our research has demonstrated the value of this approach and opportunities to widen impact beyond textiles. We have also found that the BIT framework supports a model of sustainable design for resource (material and energy) efficiency, longevity and recovery (RELR). We evidence both these outcomes via the analysis of the practice of 14 funded textile makers and 38 Masters level textile students and a wider study of 134 textile practitioners. Our research has also highlighted that mind-set, lack of access to specialist knowledge and practical examples constitute the key obstacles preventing textile designers from accessing information from biology and ultimately advancing the sustainability and/or circularity of their practice.
Our communication activities designed to share our practice-based outcomes with the textile design community via social media have stimulated significant unexpected interest from the broader design community leading to a subsequent additional study of a wider range of design practices. We found significant alignment between the obstacles reported by the textile and broader design practitioner samples. The proposed activities build on the outcomes of BIT to mitigate these issues and respond to the need for practical design methodologies that enable concepts from biology to inform product and broader design disciplines. The project is guided by two key aims:

a. Share insights pertaining the BIT framework and model of sustainable design (RELR) with the product design community of practice
b. Enable stakeholders to access and investigate the positive impact of the expanded BIT renamed Bio-Inspired Design (BID) framework and sustainable design model RELR.
(Stakeholders to include representatives from product design industry, primary and secondary education (KS1-4) as well as interested public, i.e. individuals interested in a
career in design, those seeking to understand how sustainable and/or circular models can be implemented via design practice).
.

Publications

10 25 50
 
Title Bio-Inspired Design - Helical Earplug for Sound Attenuation. Matter Ltd 
Description The Helical Earplug project is a bio-inspired sound attenuation device developed through collaboration with UAL (University of the Arts London). The research explores how biological structures, specifically helical formations, can be applied to acoustic performance and material efficiency. The resulting adjustable, passive noise-reducing earplug aims to reduce anxiety, enhance focus, and improve well-being in overstimulating environments without the need for electronics. Inspired by the Auger sea shell, DNA molecules, and the human cochlea, the helical structure leverages natural air gaps to filter sound waves while minimising material use. The design provides a scalable, sustainable, and user-friendly alternative to conventional earplugs. 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact Commercial and Industry Applications: Potential for wider adoption in the wellness, workplace, and travel industries, particularly in open-plan offices, education settings, and public transport. Could be expanded into custom-fit or personalised acoustic solutions using advanced 3D-printing or injection moulding. Further Research & Development: Exploring alternative bio-inspired structures for enhanced performance and comfort. Investigating biodegradable or bio-based materials to further improve sustainability. Scaling production for mass-market accessibility, ensuring the affordability and availability of bio-inspired noise reduction technology. 
 
Title Bio-Inspired Design - Recycled Plastic Cellular Furniture 
Description This Bio-Inspired Design project explores how cellular structures found in nature can inform sustainable product design by minimising material use and maximising structural strength. The research led to the development of a sculptural, multifunctional side table/seat made from recycled plastic and wooden rods, designed to be waste-free, modular, and fully recyclable. Inspired by biological cellular formations, the structure uses small, identical elements assembled without glue, nuts, or bolts, making it easy to repair, adapt, and disassemble for material recovery. 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact A key environmental achievement of this design is its minimal material usage. Compared to previous seating prototypes, this model requires only one-fifth of the plastic used in earlier chair designs and one-quarter of the plastic used in previous cube models. By optimising the structural design and assembly, the project significantly reduces material consumption and production waste. The table/seat follows a handmade assembly process, which further enhances its sustainability by reducing reliance on energy-intensive manufacturing techniques. This low-impact production method aligns with circular economy principles, ensuring that materials are used efficiently and can be fully reclaimed at the end of their lifespan. 
 
Title Bio-Inspired Design - Suture-Based Modular Footwear. Matter Ltd 
Description The Suture-Based Modular Footwear (POP-INS) project explores how bio-inspired sutures and bi-stable mechanisms can transform footwear design, particularly in children's shoes. This research investigates how modular assembly, intuitive fastening, and sustainability principles can enhance user experience, longevity, and resource efficiency in footwear. By studying biological sutures found in tick mouthparts, beetle wings, and sea sponge anchors, the project developed an adaptive, durable, and reconfigurable footwear system. The innovation focuses on semi-permanent, intuitive closure systems that eliminate traditional fastenings like laces or adhesives, allowing shoes to be easily assembled, adjusted, repaired, and recycled. The goal is to reduce material waste, improve accessibility for children, and extend product lifespan through modular components. 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2024 
Impact Sustainability & Circularity Resource Efficiency: Simplified manufacturing by reducing multi-material components, allowing for efficient production with minimal waste. Used modular shoe parts, enabling replacement of worn-out sections rather than discarding the entire shoe. Longevity: The adjustable closure system extends footwear usability as children's feet grow. The repairable, replaceable components prevent early product disposal, increasing shoe lifespan. Material Recovery: Designed for easy disassembly, allowing materials to be sorted and recycled at the end of the product's life. Avoided adhesives and complex bonding methods, ensuring separation of materials for recovery and reprocessing. Impact & Future Directions Scalability & Industry Applications: Potential to introduce modular, sustainable footwear into mainstream retail markets. Could influence sportswear, adaptive fashion, and performance footwear industries. Enhancing Circularity in Footwear Design: Further research into biodegradable or recycled materials to strengthen sustainability impact. Expanding the modular fastening system to adult footwear, orthopaedic applications, and professional wear. Expanding Functionality: Investigation into customisable elements (e.g., interchangeable soles for different terrains). Exploring data-driven, size-adjustable footwear solutions for growing feet. 
 
Title LINKIT: Modular Suture-Based Clothing. Florencia Bordas 
Description The Bio-Inspired Design project by Florencia Bordas explores modular, interlocking textile structures inspired by biological sutures, cellular formations, and hierarchical friction systems found in nature. The research investigates how clothing can be designed for adaptability, longevity, and sustainability by developing seamless, reconfigurable garments that do not require traditional stitching or adhesives. The project integrates laser-cut modular textile components, allowing garments to be assembled, disassembled, repaired, and customised with ease. 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact Florencia Bordas' work on Linkkit, a bio-inspired modular textile system, has gained significant recognition and industry impact. The project, which rethinks garment construction through interlocking textile modules, is inspired by biological sutures, cellular formations, and friction-based grip mechanisms. By eliminating the need for traditional stitching and adhesives, Linkkit offers a scalable, repairable, and sustainable alternative to conventional textile manufacturing. Florencia's innovative approach to sustainable fashion has positioned her as a key emerging designer in the field of circular fashion and textile design. Her research and development efforts have been recognised through multiple awards, competitions, and exhibitions, demonstrating the commercial and academic relevance of her work. Key Achievements and Recognition 2024 Reimagine Textile Awards - Linkkit was named a finalist in two categories, reinforcing its potential in the future of sustainable and smart textiles. 2024 Creatic Awards, Barcelona - Linkkit was selected as a finalist, further validating its innovative design and impact in the textile and technology sectors. 2024 Milan Design Week - Florencia will showcase Linkkit at one of the world's most prestigious design events, solidifying its relevance in global textile innovation. 2024 Design Week, Spain (LCI University Collaboration) - Linkkit was included as part of the official programming, highlighting its role in academic and industry partnerships. Worth Partnership Project Competition Winner - Florencia's "Textile Lego" concept was awarded funding and mentorship through this highly competitive European design initiative, supporting further development and market potential. 
 
Title Maker Collaboration design artefact collection 
Description We have complied a collection of 10 artefacts developed in collaboration with professional makers across a variety of design disciplines. This portfolio will be made available online from April 2023 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact This provides a series of practice based case studies for designers and researchers seeking practical evidence of the bioinspired design framework. 
 
Title NJ flat pack table 
Description A collapsible stool/side table designed through the application of the Bio-Inspired Design (BID) Framework. This piece of furniture utilizes a layered material technique, combining thin wooden pieces with textiles to create collapsible joints inspired by natural structures. Unlike traditional furniture hinges, these joints allow for fluid, multi-directional movement without the need for locking mechanisms. The piece achieves a lightweight yet sturdy design capable of bearing the weight of an average person. The stool's resource-efficient construction minimizes material usage while maintaining structural integrity. 
Type Of Art Artefact (including digital) 
Year Produced 2023 
Impact The maker presented the piece as part of the 2023 London Design fair and reported that he got a lot of interest from attendees and a potential collaboration opportunity with another exhibitor. 
 
Description Significant New Knowledge Generated:
A significant finding of our study is the alignment between obstacles reported by textile practitioners and those in the broader design community. This insight underscores the universal challenges faced in integrating biological principles into design practices, hindering the meaningful implementation of biological insights for sustainable and circular practices. We addressed this gap by developing the BID (Bioinspired Design) framework and sharing it with an international cohort of designers and practitioners, who have diverse backgrounds.

Our initial analysis of artifacts developed using the BID framework revealed promising shifts in design culture, particularly among micro-SMEs and craft practitioners. For instance, collaborative efforts led to the redesign of furniture items, resulting in significant reductions in both the variety and volume of materials used while enhancing functionality.

Identification of Research Gaps:
Our research has opened up new avenues for inquiry, particularly in exploring the integration of information-based design alongside structure-based approaches (BID currently draws on a foundation of structural design elements of biological materials). Additionally, questions have emerged regarding the scalability of the BID framework for commercial applications, indicating areas for future investigation.

Enhanced Research Capability:
Through specialized training in biomimetic design principles, our team has bolstered research capabilities, particularly in advancing the processing of bio-based textile materials into industrial solutions. This is crucial in light of evolving regulatory frameworks emphasizing sustainability and circularity in product design and manufacturing.
Exploitation Route Designers from across the globe engaging in making/ manufacturing products will be able to learn about the bioinspired design framework and apply it to their practice. They will also be more aware of the impacts of their existing practices on the environment, the BID framework offers guidance on how to improve the impact of practice through design decision by drawing on practitioners' existing technical knowledge and skills.
Sectors Creative Economy

URL http://www.bioinspireddesign.com
 
Description The Bio-Inspired Design (BID) Initiative is focused on design education, sustainable product innovation, and international collaboration. Through a combination of research, online learning, and applied project funding, we have engaged a global community of designers, empowered practitioners with bio-inspired methodologies, and facilitated the development of real-world design solutions that address pressing sustainability challenges. Our online course pilot attracted over 200 design practitioners from 70 countries, demonstrating strong international demand for bio-inspired design education. Among them, 102 participants completed more than 70% of the course, and 60 developed design proposals using BID principles and tools. To further support innovation, we funded 10 outstanding projects, working closely with the selected applicants to help implement their proposals. Building on this success, the program has continued to grow. In the academic year 2024-2025, we have welcomed 243 new participants from over 20 different countries, reinforcing the course's ability to reach and inspire a diverse global audience of designers, researchers, and practitioners. Alongside educational efforts, our research has explored nature-inspired sutures, modular footwear systems, sustainable textile development, and bio-inspired sound attenuation technologies. These projects demonstrate how BID principles can translate into practical, scalable solutions, including: Suture-Based Modular Footwear - Investigating semi-permanent bi-stable mechanisms to enhance footwear durability, accessibility, and repairability. Helical Earplug for Sound Attenuation - Developing a passive noise-filtering device inspired by the human cochlea and helical biological structures. Textile-Based Circular Economy Innovations - Exploring gradients, cellular structures, and modular design for sustainable textiles and fashion. Real-World Impact and Industry Collaboration The BID research and training framework has directly contributed to applied projects and industry engagement. By equipping designers with bio-inspired design tools, we are seeing increased adoption of sustainable, nature-informed methodologies across different sectors, from fashion and textiles to industrial design and wearable technology.
First Year Of Impact 2023
Sector Creative Economy
Impact Types Cultural

Societal

 
Description Bioinspired Design Online Course
Geographic Reach Multiple continents/international 
Policy Influence Type Contribution to new or improved professional practice
Impact Designers taking part in the piloting of the course (over 200 from 60 different countries, divers disciplines and background) reported a significant impact on their sustainable design skills, some describe it as transformative.
URL http://www.bioinspireddesign.com
 
Description Design Council 
Organisation Design Council
Country United Kingdom 
Sector Charity/Non Profit 
PI Contribution The DC recognizes the alignment of this research with their Design for the Planet Mission and speaks to their strategic plan to maximise the impact of their Innovation Hub.
Collaborator Contribution Design Council is the national strategic advisor for design and are helping us champion the value of design by providing strategic advice and access to networks.
Impact None yet, these are due at the end of this year
Start Year 2022
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation Centre for Research and Technology Hellas (CERTH)
Country Greece 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation Delft University of Technology (TU Delft)
Country Netherlands 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation King Juan Carlos University
Country Spain 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation Lappeenranta University of Technology
Country Finland 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation Max Planck Society
Department Max Planck Institute of Molecular Plant Physiology
Country Germany 
Sector Charity/Non Profit 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation Next Technology Tecnotessile
Country Italy 
Sector Private 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation University of Boras
Country Sweden 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation University of Ghent
Country Belgium 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description RESILIENT VALUE CHAINS 2023 
Organisation University of West Attica
Country Greece 
Sector Academic/University 
PI Contribution I was approached by this partner to participate in a Horizon Europe Call, the topic is on bioinpsired and biomimetic materials for the textile industry, and my contribution was the shaping of the research project using the bioinspired textile design framework. We have just submitted this bid and dont yet know what the outcome will be, but we have agreed to continue working with this group (not just the partner) to explore other funding opportunities.
Collaborator Contribution Agricultural waste stream supply, waste processing and optimization, cellulose fibre extrusion and smart textile technologies.
Impact We have submitted a proposal for Innovation Action to the Call: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-TWO-STAGE on the Topic: HORIZON-CL4-2023-RESILIENCE-01-32 Proposal number: 101130559-1
Start Year 2023
 
Description From Boxfish to Twistbo Developing a Woven Textile Hinge Through Bio-inspired Design 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach International
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact This was an in person event, there were over 50 people in the audience. Mainly textile practice based researchers and professional designer. I supported Katheryn Walters who participated in BIT Maker collaboration as a co-author on a paper describing the work she did as part of the BIT project and how this developed her own research. This paper is due to be published soon.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023
 
Description How to apply ideas from biology into your design practice 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach International
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact Presentation on the initial results and outcomes from the BID follow on funding grant primarily the public online course, as part of the Design for Planet Festival 2023. We gave an online presentation, we have over 140 attendees, there was significant interest in the launch of the course scheduled for the end of Feb 2024
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023
 
Description Invited speaker: what can designers learn from biology 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach National
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact This was an online presentation, there were over 50 people in the audience. A very interesting discussion followed the talk.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023
URL https://cfpr.uwe.ac.uk/futuretextiles2023/
 
Description Keynote: What can designers learn from biology 
Form Of Engagement Activity Participation in an activity, workshop or similar
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach Local
Primary Audience Public/other audiences
Results and Impact Gave keynote at Edinburgh Science Festival 2023 event in the Planatarium. Over 100 people attended (sell out event). The audience, mostly from the general public, found the talk 'fascinating' and reported that it really made them think about the role of design and how it can be informed by biology.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023
 
Description Online Talk 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach International
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact Introduced the Bioinspired Design project as part of the Design Council's meetup platform. Over 50 people attended online and we had alot of interest in our work and individuals wanting to be kept in the loop about the launch of our resources.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023
 
Description Transitioning to Net Zero: Lessons from Biology 
Form Of Engagement Activity A talk or presentation
Part Of Official Scheme? No
Geographic Reach International
Primary Audience Professional Practitioners
Results and Impact Keynote presentation at 92nd Textile Institute World Conference, Huddersfield, 2023.
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity 2023