Restoration and Redesign: A Circular System Economy for a Coastal Community
Lead Research Organisation:
University of Ulster
Department Name: Sch of Art & Design
Abstract
As agreed with AHRC please see the Case for Support attachment for the full application information'
People |
ORCID iD |
| Alison Gault (Principal Investigator) | |
| Anna Duffy (Co-Investigator) |
| Title | Fibre to Fabric video |
| Description | The development of the video as a digital mapping of the stakeholders, growing, preparing and manufacturing the fibre was part of the story-telling narrative for the project |
| Type Of Art | Artefact (including digital) |
| Year Produced | 2023 |
| Impact | It has begun to stimulate interest in the possibilities of producing and manufacturing Irish Linen and Irish Grown Wool in Northern Ireland. It has disseminated the project and supported financial investment in the project, for the restoration of the spinning equipment. |
| URL | https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/fibre-to-fabric |
| Title | Tomorrows Wardrobe |
| Description | Tomorrow's Wardrobe brings together a diversity of designers from across the fashion industry who are revolutionising the way we create, make, and wear clothes - including Stella McCartney, Ponda, Ahluwalia, Salomon, Ranra, Phoebe English and Vivobarefoot. The fashion and textile industry is one of the most environmentally damaging design fields at work today. The footprint of our wardrobes extends from textile production in farms and factories to the design process in fashion houses. Though a significant driver of the UK economy, the impact of fashion is felt across the world in the form of material waste, ecological degradation, water pollution, exploitative working conditions and overproduction: annual garment production has doubled since 2000 and is expected to have increased by 60% in 2030. Tomorrow's Wardrobe showcases the urgent research and innovation taking place across the UK to rethink how the world of fashion works. Moving from fabric landscapes to design studios to individual garments, the display presents a future built from both high-tech and low-tech tools: sewing machines, robotic arms, artificial intelligence, digital ids, upcycling, recycling and more. Tomorrow's Wardrobe is curated by Future Observatory, the Design Museum's national research programme for the green transition. Future Observatory is coordinated by the Design Museum in partnership with the Arts and Humanities Research Council. |
| Type Of Art | Artistic/Creative Exhibition |
| Year Produced | 2024 |
| Impact | Broadened our network and stakeholders Following the event Invited as a speaker to a Fashion and Farming - https://www.fashionandfarming.com Attracted approximately 620,000 visitors to the exhibition over the year |
| URL | https://designmuseum.org/exhibitions/future-observatory-tomorrows-wardrobe |
| Title | Woven and knitted fabric |
| Description | Fabrics produced using Northern Irish grown linen and wool |
| Type Of Art | Artefact (including digital) |
| Year Produced | 2023 |
| Impact | Testing and analysis for the quality of the fabric - tensile and abrasive strength |
| Description | The project has allowed the PI and the CoI to develop new knowledge through the shared stories around flax and linen, from those working in the textile industry in Northern Ireland, and more recently the demise of the industry as it was off-shored to South Africa and then China. The identification of heritage skills that were once central to the textile industry in both the spinning and engineering industries and the range of skills once used in the industry have been identified through the 'call for skills.' Collaborating with InvestNI, MuseumsNI and how to develop and extend this knowledge will be in the next steps. Through the research project we were able to interview a number of textile spinning engineers with a wealth of experience on spinning equipment and garner information around the restoration of the heritage spinning equipment, and importantly on the feasibility around growing, processing and spinning at both small and industrial scale - a potential revival of the textile spinning within Northern Ireland. This information was included in a report for the Department of the Economy on Reviving the Textile Industry NI. The project resulted in research networks, collaborations and partnerships that have been wrapped into future funding applications and have benefitted from a range of sectoral discussions, looking at novel ways of working together around the circular supply chain using locally grown fibres and waste wool. These have included the PI leadership for the Education and Outreach subgroup of the Irish Grown Wool Council, and engagement and development of the Natural Fibre Specialist Interest Group resulting in an all-island Bio Direct project, alongside an AHRC funded Future Island Island Project. |
| Exploitation Route | The outcome of the funding will be taken forward by the company, through the restoration of the machinery. It will also be developed by MuseumsNI and the next round of funding for the Awakening project exploring ways to have a small scale spinning mill within the Folk and Transport museum. Developing skills through QEST, and at earlier stages by engaging with schools and education and outreach platforms via the Irish Grown Wool Council - education and outreach projects to support skills and knowledge of the textile heritage. We are investigating a route to market via a commercialisation grant, there is a real appetite for locally grown and spun material and a number of high-end design houses are interested in including the fabric in their collections. Developing the Natural Fibre Special Interest Group looking at commercial applications, including composites and fibre for construction and agriculture will also be pursued as part of this research and continued with the AHRC Future Island Island Project, and through conference presentations, academic papers and journal articles. Currently we are in preparation for a Textile and Fashion Exhibition at the London Design Museum. The display will cover key stages in the processes of production, design, retail and post-retail life of garments, featuring live and ongoing projects from universities, manufacturers, brands, R&D labs and other research hubs. |
| Sectors | Aerospace Defence and Marine Agriculture Food and Drink Creative Economy Leisure Activities including Sports Recreation and Tourism Manufacturing including Industrial Biotechology Culture Heritage Museums and Collections Retail |
| Description | We have presented the findings to local and regional/national government level this is at an early stage and the impact will be measured as it develops over the next year. The project has provided an opportunity to look at the feasibility for a circular supply chain and increasing the value in the natural fibre supply chain. We are developing the project outcomes with a range of stakeholders across Northern Ireland, including Ulster Wool, InvestNI, MuseumsNI, the broader textile industry and research hubs such as NIACE. The findings from the research have raised certain challenges to achieve and enlarge the impact highlighting the need for further investment, with potential for employment by developing heritage skills and identifying new technologies. Decarbonising and improving the environment through the use of waste and using locally grown, processed and manufactured products. Some of the research has been included in reports for the Department of the Economy. The research was included in the Future Observatory's first ever online journal From the Portfolio: FO_Portfolio_01 Wet Spinning machine. The project was also disseminated at the Royal Geographical Society (RGS-IGB). Annual International Conference 2024 as part of the workshop 'Testing the Waters.' We were also invited to showcase the project at the London Design Museum as part of the Future Observatory's exhibition 'Tomorrows Wardrobe' with a footfall of approx 620,000 visitors. The exhibition has been well received and the PI Alison Gault as a result has been invited to speak at the Fashion and Farming event in Kinsale, County Cork in May 2025 alongside key speakers including the actors Jeremy Irons and Sinead Cusack, Sir Tim Smith KBE (co-founder for the Eden Project) |
| First Year Of Impact | 2023 |
| Sector | Aerospace, Defence and Marine,Agriculture, Food and Drink,Construction,Creative Economy,Education,Environment,Manufacturing, including Industrial Biotechology,Culture, Heritage, Museums and Collections,Retail |
| Impact Types | Cultural Societal Economic Policy & public services |
| Description | A Natural Fibre supply chain in Northern Ireland' |
| Geographic Reach | Local/Municipal/Regional |
| Policy Influence Type | Contribution to a national consultation/review |
| Description | Reviving the Northern Ireland Textile Heritage Industry |
| Geographic Reach | Local/Municipal/Regional |
| Policy Influence Type | Contribution to a national consultation/review |
| Description | AHRC Green Transition Ecosystem: Future Island-Island |
| Amount | £46,250,000 (GBP) |
| Funding ID | AH/Y003780/1 |
| Organisation | Arts & Humanities Research Council (AHRC) |
| Sector | Public |
| Country | United Kingdom |
| Start | 09/2024 |
| End | 09/2025 |
| Description | Project partners |
| Organisation | National Museums Northern Ireland |
| Country | United Kingdom |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | Contribution that the research team brought as part of the collaboration was in the area of design expertise. We also looked at contracting the supply chain and implementing a circular production system in the coastal community. Knowledge and understanding of the spinning process, fibre development and fabric construction and how to capture this information in a visual way to engage a wider audience and diverse stakeholders. Access to equipment to develop the fibre for testing and analysis. Access to materials and expertise around growing fibres. |
| Collaborator Contribution | Access to the found spinning equipment and resources in the company. |
| Impact | Development of fibre for the spinning machines |
| Start Year | 2023 |
| Description | 'Testing the Waters: Participatory Approaches for Resilience of Coastal Environments': RGS-IBG Annual International Conference 2024 |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | Description This workshop will investigate participatory approaches for building resilience of coastal environments. Current planning and management in coastal areas seek to 'reconnect' and 'revitalise' seaside spaces but focus on top-down approaches. Less explored, however, is how these planning and development processes can support a "sense of place", particularly in spaces that are in marginalised communities. In fact, there is a current lack of models of public participation and engagement, particularly around involving such excluded communities in the future planning of deprived coastal neighbourhoods. We propose that creative and participatory methods are needed to explore new ways of engaging coastal communities for building inclusive and resilient coastal environments. Workshop format: The workshop will 'test the waters' by exploring an engagement methodology that addresses the challenges of working with coastal communities. We will invite participants to act as peers with an agency in bottom-up participatory methods using visual and creative contributions. The workshop will be followed by a chaired interactive discussion between collaborators and the audience to explore reflections, commonalities and divergences in themes and ideas around coastal resilience. This session will create a dynamic and experimental space for exploring ideas and interventions towards shaping alternative futures for coastal towns and cities and highlighting opportunities for future collaborations. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://event.ac2024.exordo.com/session/328/testing-the-waters-participatory-approaches-for-resilien... |
| Description | Arts and Humanities Research Council and Future Observatory Researchers' Forum at London Design Museum |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | This was an opportunity at the end of November, to be part of a forum for the researchers and academic partners on our Design Exchange Partnership and Design Accelerator programmes. This was to Mark the end of both cohorts' research periods, the event was designed to be a reflective and celebratory moment in which researchers could present their work to each other at the Design Museum in London. Representatives from twenty-one projects, from locations across the UK, including Inverness, Plymouth, Belfast, and Carmarthen. The projects mirrored this geographical diversity, tackling issues from agricultural waste management to uptake of domestic retrofitting and salt marsh regeneration. With research interests ranging from sewage to seaweed, and solar panels to sustainable period products, the wealth of expertise at the forum was a reminder of just how expansive and interdisciplinary design research can be. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://futureobservatory.org/news/learning-from-each-other |
| Description | Feature COVER |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A magazine, newsletter or online publication |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | Our DEP project with Mourne Textiles has been featured in COVER Magazine, Issue 72, AUTUMN 2023. This was to promote the projects Crowdfunder to raise funds to restore the textile equipment as part of the Restoration and Redesign project. This raised 41k in funds in support of the project. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| Description | Fibre to Fabric Seminar |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | The interactive seminar was part of Craft Month and the Linen Biennale, we had a broad range of stakeholders represented across the sectors including education (primary, post-primary and tertiary). There were also representatives from local councils - Belfast, Museums NI, DAERA, KNIB (Keep Northern Ireland Beautiful), InvestNI and the Department of the Economy (DfE) The activity provided an opportunity to disseminate the innovation in the project and highlight the aim to restore Northern Ireland's textile heritage and promote a sustainable future. Understanding the focus of the project in promoting a green and sustainable future, where innovation meets tradition and tradition informs innovation. The mission to restore vintage flax processing and spinning equipment, to create a sustainable circular supply chain, here in Ireland was presented by the researchers for the context and background showing the outcome and engagement with key stakeholders including the farmers, fibreshed, and HempNI, the processors and spinners - Donegal Yarns, the end users and the decision makers - city councils, InvestNI, Museums NI, DfE. We also invited our industry partner to talk about his role in the project. Mario Sierra, the Creative Director of Mourne Textiles, will tell the story behind the project and share the vision for preserving and reviving the exceptional heritage of Northern Ireland's textile industry. A Local designer and user of linen - the Creative Director of Kindred of Ireland was invited to discuss how a slow and sustainable business model could value a locally grown fibre, and the importance of using responsibly sourced, sustainable, and intentional, selection of fibre - and contracting the supply chain. One of the Textile and Fashion Coordinator at Keep Northern Ireland Beautiful, Tackling Textile Waste. was invited to discuss the impact of the fast fashion to our society and to reflect on the importance of selecting fibres that are responsibly sourced. At the end of the presentation there was a round table with an interactive element where attendees can engage with the researchers and partners, stakeholders and learn about the project's heritage restoration and sustainability efforts firsthand. Gain insight into the "Fibre to Fabric" project and how it aims to contribute to the sustainable future of the textile industry in Ireland. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://www.linenbiennalenorthernireland.com/events-1/fibre-to-fabric-seminar |
| Description | From the Portfolio: FO_Portfolio_01 Wet spinning machine |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A magazine, newsletter or online publication |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | Harvest, scutch and heckle the flax plant and it is ready to spin into linen yarn. This was once a common practice in Northern Ireland, but the rise of synthetic fabrics in the 1950s curtailed the region's history of field-to-fabric linen production. Spinning equipment was shipped away to new textile hubs in South Africa, Portugal and China, and with them went the linen skills and knowledge needed to keep those practices alive. But in 2023 when Mario Sierra, the director of Mourne Textiles, a traditional weaving mill, discovered a suite of industrial spinning equipment in a derelict linen mill, it set in motion a project that might just revive Irish linen. What Sierra stumbled upon is not simply a relic of a bygone industry. Each of the seven machines - from the wet ring spinner to the spreader, doubler and the hackler - plugs a gap in the linen production supply chain. If restored, Irish linen is back. But the overhaul of these bulky and intricate machines is no small feat. Take the Wet Spinning Machine. This machine dissolves flax fibres in a liquid spinning solution that is then extruded into continuous filaments. The environment of the machine plays a part in this process too. It needs to be 25 degrees and high humidity so that liquid solution can bind the fibres together; the machine constantly pulls and elongates the flax fibres until they are twisted and wound on the bobbin. The Spinner is in a rickety state; its frame is worn and the motor responsible for heating the spinning solution is in dire need of replacement. Removing the rust and replacing the missing parts is only a part of revitalising the supply chain. Each machine - from the Shuttle Loom, Spinner, Spreader, to the Doubler and Hackler - requires knowledge from craftspeople to operate. Alongside the restoration, the project team, which involves researchers from Ulster University working on a Future Observatory Design Exchange Partnership project, are connecting with expert spinners to record and pass on their knowledge to a new generation. 'If everything goes according to plan' reports Anna Duffy, researcher at Ulster University 'we will have some wet spun linen by the summer.' Although the machinery is vintage, this mini-mill and the self-sustaining system it enables, where linen can be farmed, processed and spun in Northern Ireland, is fit for an ecological future. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://fojournal.org/from-the-portfolio/from-the-portfolio-bioregion/ |
| Description | Irish Grown Wool Council |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A formal working group, expert panel or dialogue |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | As part of the Irish Grown Wool Council and the Wool Research and Development Hub discussion around the gap in the spinning and the co mingling of the flax fibres and the wool issues were discussed to explore areas of mutual challenge or opportunity. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| Description | Killowen School Visit in the Mournes |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | Local |
| Primary Audience | Schools |
| Results and Impact | The RA and the Project lead prepared a workshop for 20 students and 3 staff member in a small rural school. The workshop included a preparation by the students in the form of a family/local history project to understand the context of the textile industry in their region, and the type of employment it provided. Students brought their stories/research activities and shared them with the group. There was an interactive activity with the students where they watched a video on the linen industry and then actively participated in spinning, with examples of the stages of growing, heckling, carding, combing and spinning presented to understand the steps in the process. There were visual aids and colouring activities with all the tools around spinning past and present. This was a model developed and tested to take out across Ireland. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| Description | Natural Fibres Special Interest Group |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A formal working group, expert panel or dialogue |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | Attendance at the Round table events held at the Lisburn Linen Museum where approximately 60 attendees from a range of sectors including R Space Gallery, Industry, InvestNI, DfE, HempNI, Mallon Linen, Researchers, NIACE, CCP Gransdons, The British Hemp Company engaged in discussion. The gap in spinning was clearly identified during the debate at this event. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| Description | Podcast feature |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A broadcast e.g. TV/radio/film/podcast (other than news/press) |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | Our DEP project with Mourne Textiles has been featured on the Garmology podcast. This was to promote the projects Crowdfunder to raise funds to restore the textile equipment as part of the Restoration and Redesign project. This raised 41k in funds in support of the project. Garmology podcast: Fibre to fabric - With Mario Sierra of Mourne Textiles (S04E24 #124) |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://welldresseddad.com/2023/06/16/garmology-mario-mourne-textile/ |
| Description | Research Away Day - Ulster University |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an open day or visit at my research institution |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | Local |
| Primary Audience | Other audiences |
| Results and Impact | We presented the "Restoration and Redesign: Exploring the coastal heritage potential for a circular design economy" Design Exchange Partnership to fellow researchers at Ulster University. This was part of Ulster Universities Research Away Day event. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Selvedge Magazine |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A magazine, newsletter or online publication |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | Our DEP project with Mourne Textiles has been featured in Selvedge Magazine online and in the newsletter. This was to promote the projects Crowdfunder to raise funds to restore the textile equipment as part of the Restoration and Redesign project. This raised 41k in funds in support of the project. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://www.selvedge.org/blogs/selvedge/fibre-to-fabric-crowd-funding-campaign |
| Description | UKFT Article - Fibre to Fabric |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A press release, press conference or response to a media enquiry/interview |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | Our DEP project with Mourne Textiles has been featured in the UKFT. This was to promote the projects Crowdfunder to raise funds to restore the textile equipment as part of the Restoration and Redesign project. This raised 41k in funds in support of the project. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://www.ukft.org/mourne-textiles-fibre-fabric/ |
| Description | Ulster Future Island-Island - Kids Textile Workshop |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | Regional |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | This workshop explored textile processes and skills; spinning, weaving and knitting. This kids workshop was a part of a two day event, Ulster Future Island-Island as part of NI Science Festival. The parents reported an increased interest in the subject areas and has requested future advance skills based workshops for adults. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://nisciencefestival.com/events/ulster-future-island-island |
| Description | Ulster Future Island-Island - Project Presentation |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | Regional |
| Primary Audience | Public/other audiences |
| Results and Impact | We presented the "Restoration and Redesign: A Circular System Economy for a Coastal Community" project as a part of a two day event, Ulster Future Island-Island on Rathlin Island as a part of NI Science Festival. This event highlighted the new GTE project as well as associated research projects. During the talk we presented key findings from the DEP and explore future aspirations for the GTE. This lead to audience engagement and further discussions with residents, general public and project partners. This has lead to follow on meetings to discuss future collaborations. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://nisciencefestival.com/events/ulster-future-island-island |