Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion & Textiles
Lead Research Organisation:
University of Leeds
Department Name: Sch of Design
Abstract
The fashion and textile sector is a major contributor to UK GDP, but the global industry is a major contributor to carbon emissions and other negative environmental impacts, including generation of thousands of tonnes of textile waste incinerated/landfilled in the UK every year. With UK fashion consumption continuing to rise, there is a pressing need to develop strategy for sustainable transformation, which means first establishing a clear picture of the current state of the industry's full environmental impacts, particularly as it relates to the UK. This large interdisciplinary Network will determine how to assess, evidence, and monitor the sustainability credentials of current and proposed practices across the fashion and textile industry to ensure congruence with Net Zero targets. The work will identify the sectoral, disciplinary, technical, cultural, and skills-based barriers to transitioning to more sustainable practices, as well as those areas where specific interventions could result in the highest impacts, to decide where best to target future innovation and priorities. The Network will also take account of ongoing disconnects between design, manufacturing, retail, use and end-of-life disposal that contribute to environmental impacts. A robust, accurate and honest picture of the current 'baseline' position of the industry will be presented, from which the best strategy to meet Net Zero and other mandated targets can be based.
Organisations
- University of Leeds (Lead Research Organisation)
- NORTHUMBRIA UNIVERSITY (Collaboration)
- Matoha (Project Partner)
- UK Fashion & Textile Association (Project Partner)
- Yorkshire Textiles (Project Partner)
- Laxtons (Project Partner)
- A W Hainsworth (Project Partner)
- TD Synnex (Project Partner)
- WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Prog) (Project Partner)
- Burberry (Project Partner)
- W.T. Johnson & Sons (Project Partner)
| Title | Narrative Capture |
| Description | Methodology developed is three stage: 1. A narrative workshop method was developed and used to capture qualitative data (lived experience and perspective of fashion & textile manufacturers - a methodology suited to a targeted but limited sample size). Post workshop narrative analysis then took place to identify the dynamics of individual narratives in their unique context. At least three narratives are then identified to inform stage 2 & 3 of the methodology. 2. Quantitative representation of selected narratives takes place. Identified impact narratives are communicated as manufacturing scenarios, these scenarios are then quantified to provide a data based evidence set for resulting environmental impacts. 3. Narrative Case Studies are then produced to communicate identified behaviours driving wasteful / unsustainable manufacturing practices and the quantified impact of these scenarios. Alternative practices that would reduce these impacts will be discussed. To support the qualitative data capture a workshop canvas for "Narrative Capture' was developed. |
| Type Of Material | Improvements to research infrastructure |
| Year Produced | 2024 |
| Provided To Others? | Yes |
| Impact | Provided a means to link industry experience and evidence in the form of qualitative data to quantitative evidence base lines which is providing a new multi discipline dimension and insight to the B2B T1 research. |
| Description | IMPACT+ Launch Event - workshop participation (23-Jan-2024) |
| Organisation | Northumbria University |
| Department | Northumbria School of Design |
| Country | United Kingdom |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | Members of the B2B team attended the IMPACT+ launch event and took part in their planned workshop activities. Participants were Prof. Stephen Russell, PI B2B; Mike Morris, UoL commercialisation team; Sue Rainton, LITAC Associate Director; Alison Halsall, B2B Network Coordinator. |
| Collaborator Contribution | Participation in planned workshop activities, providing expert input. |
| Impact | Collaboration across the Circular Fashion and Textiles Network Plus is still at an early stage, no formal outputs or outcomes to report as yet. A first follow on collaborative workshop, jointly organised by B2B Thematic Area Leader Effie Kesidou and IMPACT+ PI Alana James was held on 09-Feb-2024 however. |
| Start Year | 2023 |
| Description | Participation in the IMPACT+ launch event |
| Organisation | Northumbria University |
| Country | United Kingdom |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | Participation as B2B theme leader, attended the IMPACT+ launch event and took part in their planned workshop activities providing expert input. |
| Collaborator Contribution | They facilitated workshop activities, providing expert input. |
| Impact | Collaboration across the Circular Fashion and Textiles Network Plus is still at an early stage, no formal outputs or outcomes to report as yet. |
| Start Year | 2024 |
| Description | Stakeholder workshop on 'Generating Eco-Credential Standards.' |
| Organisation | Northumbria University |
| Department | Northumbria School of Design |
| Country | United Kingdom |
| Sector | Academic/University |
| PI Contribution | I jointly organised with IMPACT+ PI Alana James a collaborative workshop, on 09-Feb-2024. |
| Collaborator Contribution | 'Eco-Standards in the UK Textile and Fashion Industry' Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion & Textiles (B2B F&T) University of Leeds, NEXUS - 9th February 2024 -workshop title: 'Eco-Standards in the UK Textile and Fashion Industry' -workshop leader(s) names and affiliations: Prof. Effie Kesidou (Leeds University Business School) and Dr Alana James (Northumbria University) -a summary of the workshop aims and objectives: The aim of the workshop is to understand the relationship between the adoption of eco-standards and the environmental performance of the UK Textile and Fashion (T&F). The objectives cover various aspects of how companies engage with and implement eco-standards, as well as their advantages, disadvantages, and importance for improving environmental performance. The relevance of eco-standards in the global supply chain is also explored. The objectives are the following: 1. Engagement with Eco-Standards: Explore how companies in the UK T&F industry are currently engaging with eco-standards such as Higg MSI, WRAP, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, ISO 14001, and ISO 50001. 2. Implementation of Eco-Standards: Investigate the processes and methods through which eco-standards are implemented within the industry. 3. Advantages and Disadvantages of Eco-Standards: Examine the pros and cons associated with the adoption of eco-standards, considering factors such as sustainability benefits, business operations benefits, and market competitiveness benefits. 4. Importance for Environmental Performance: Assess the extent to which eco-standards contribute to improving the environmental performance of companies in the UK T&F industry. 5. Development/Improvement of Eco-Standards: Investigate how existing eco-standards can be developed or improved to enhance accuracy and transparency when measuring environmental performance. 6. Relevance in the Global Supply Chain: Explore the role of eco-standards in understanding and influencing the environmental performance across the global supply chain of the UK T&F industry. -methodology being used: The focus group discussion methodology is utilised. Specifically, the workshop will include three tables with different questions which will stimulate the structured discussion amongst the participants. Facilitators will lead the discussions. The primary goal is to gather insights about key aspects related to eco-standards and their impact on environmental sustainability within the textile and fashion industry. Participants will be encouraged to express their views, discuss and analyse these topics so as to gain insights into the current practices, challenges, and potential improvements in the adoption of eco-standards in the sector. The facilitators will keep notes; this data will be then analysed to in order to capture the collective view of the focus group. |
| Impact | Focus group notes are currently analysed. |
| Start Year | 2023 |
| Description | Back to Baselines - Sustainable Transition Fund - Call 1 (01-Mar-2024) |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A magazine, newsletter or online publication |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | The funding call opened on 1st March and will close on 30th April 2024. This opportunity has been promoted via UKFT, WRAP, LITAC, FFF and all partner university networks. This funding is designed to stimulate network engagement and will lead on to collaborative project activity involving both academic and industrial network members. Call for Proposals to Address Evidence & Data Gaps in UK Fashion & Textiles Researchers, businesses and other organisations are invited to apply for funding to run targeted research projects that will provide new insights, evidence and data to help inform the current and future baseline position of sustainable practice in the UK's Fashion and Textile industry. The £700k Sustainable Transition Fund is being offered as part of Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion & Textiles (B2B F&T) programme. This collaborative initiative brings together academic researchers from different academic disciplines, leaders of industry, and government bodies to assess current sustainable practices within the UK Fashion and Textile industry and establish a data-driven baseline, which will ensure future strategy is aligned with environmental targets. The two-year £2M project is being led by Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC), supported by the National Environment Research Council, the Arts and Humanities Research Council, and Innovate UK. This engagement activity was picked up by a number of members of the network, URL from the UKFT news feed entered below, ecotextiles here https://www.ecotextile.com/2024030431770/fashion-retail-news/uk-announces-sustainable-fashion-funding-drive.html |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://www.ukft.org/baselines-sustainable-transition-fundmarch24/ |
| Description | Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion & Textiles Launch Event |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | The launch Symposium ran throughout the day to establish the collaborative 'Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles' sub-network, funded by the Natural Environment Research Council (NERC) and the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) as part of the circular fashion and textiles Network Plus programme. It brought together academic researchers from different disciplines, leaders of industry, and government bodies as part of a collaborative effort to establish comprehensive, scientifically validated, and well-evidenced environmental and design frameworks for the fashion and textile industry that will inform future decision-making. The Symposium reviewed the sustainability challenges faced by the industry, identifying current data and knowledge gaps, assessing progress to date, and exploring effective strategies to meet environmental sustainability targets, including the transition to viable circular economies. The Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles (B2B) sub-network will go on to establish an evidence base to support progress towards a sustainable future, compliant with mandated deadlines such as Net Zero, and is fully aligned with WRAP's Textiles 2030 initiative. The event also announced the details of a new £700K Sustainable Transition Fund (the sub-network's flexible Plus Pot) and associated calls for proposals, which will support short, targeted projects led by industry or academic researchers to provide new insights, evidence, and data to help inform future directions. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYtJFwDORLQDn-kaAmGy_czm5mP0wqIpFM8296OmLdnp1JJw/viewform |
| Description | Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles Launch Symposium (9th February 2024) |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | The launch Symposium ran throughout the day to establish the collaborative 'Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles' sub-network, funded by the Natural Environment Research Council (NERC) and the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) as part of the circular fashion and textiles Network Plus programme. It brought together academic researchers from different disciplines, leaders of industry, and government bodies as part of a collaborative effort to establish comprehensive, scientifically validated, and well-evidenced environmental and design frameworks for the fashion and textile industry that will inform future decision-making. The Symposium reviewed the sustainability challenges faced by the industry, identifying current data and knowledge gaps, assessing progress to date, and exploring effective strategies to meet environmental sustainability targets, including the transition to viable circular economies. The Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles (B2B) sub-network will go on to establish an evidence base to support progress towards a sustainable future, compliant with mandated deadlines such as Net Zero, and is fully aligned with WRAP's Textiles 2030 initiative. The event also announced the details of a new £700K Sustainable Transition Fund (the sub-network's flexible Plus Pot) and associated calls for proposals, which will support short, targeted projects led by industry or academic researchers to provide new insights, evidence, and data to help inform future directions. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYtJFwDORLQDn-kaAmGy_czm5mP0wqIpFM8296OmLdnp1JJw/viewform |
| Description | Back to Baselines presentation, Munich (21-Mar-2024) |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | A presentation around Net Zero transition for the fashion and textile sector, LITAC industrial network, ethos and how to get involved. Content includes outcomes from the Future Fashion Factory award and planned activity for Back to Baselines, specifically on how to engage via the Sustainable Transition Fund. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://www.performancedays.com/ |
| Description | Drapers Sustainability Conference |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | This is a predominantly industry/business event for the fashion and textiles sector organised by the leading trade press publication Drapers brings together c.300 senior executives from across the industry e.g. brands, retailers, SMEs and suppliers. Opportunity for networking, making connections with industry to become research participants/collaborators in Back to Baselines, to raise the profile of the Back to Baselines research project across the sector etc. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://sustainablefashion.drapersonline.com/dsf2024/en/page/home |
| Description | Fashion Impact Narratives; a workshop to capture the impact on manufacture of decisions made elsewhere in the value chain |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | Stakeholders, specifically manufacturers in the fashion supply chain were invited to attend & contribute to the workshop through the B2B and IMPACT N+ project contacts. During the workshop industry partners in attendance provided examples of practices that occur regularly within industry supply chains that lead to waste and environmental impacts. These practices were collated in the form of narratives (to provide anonymity to businesses) and will provide a foundation to start to build data sets from to provide T1 with an initial evidence based over view of where small changes in behaviours across the value chain could drive "quick wins" in terms of environmental impact. The workshop methodology and data capture tool was designed by Dr Dawn Ellams, Royal College of Art and facilitated by the Network+ Back 2 Baselines Theme 1 leaders; Prof Phil Purnell from the University of Leeds, Dr Dawn Ellams from the Royal College of Art and Prof Parikshit Goswami from the University of Huddersfield. The workshop aimed to capture & quantify first hand narratives to communicate, from the perspective of manufacturers, examples where decisions / motivations made elsewhere in the value chain are driving wasteful and unsustainable practices for manufacturers. Following the workshop the T1 research team reviewed the practices identified to support understanding for who & motivations for decisions that drive wasteful practices by; - identifying a selection of the practices to develop into scenarios to be used to quantify environmental impacts, - identifying how small changes in behaviours across the value chain could drive "quick wins" in terms of environmental impact, - identifying longer term changes in behaviours across the value chain. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Host of Back to Baselines (B2B) Launch Event |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Participation in an activity, workshop or similar |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | Conference Host & Opening/Closing Presentations at the B2B Launch Event in Leeds (NEXUS) - 9th Feb |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| URL | https://ahc.leeds.ac.uk/directory_record/1896/back-to-baselines-in-circular-fashion-and-textiles-est... |
| Description | Myth Busting in Fashion & Textiles, a presentation by Dr. Mark Sumner (09-Feb-2024) |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | A presentation at the Back to Baselines launch event by one of the B2B Network Experts Dr. Mark Sumner. The presentation focused on generally accepted statements that influence the perception of the fashion and textile sector globally but for which there is currently no validated data to support. Led on to discussion on how to improve this data & so provide evidence that could support Net Zero transition and improve public understanding and perception of fashion and textile processes. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Participation and Presentation in B2B launch event |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | Presentation with regard the Thematic Area which Adam Mansell, myself and Stella Claxton are leading - Skills Objectives: Investigate best practice in skills development to support the transition to a sustainable and circular fashion and textiles industry Identify skills gaps Test and model new approaches to harness interdisciplinary skills relevant to industry and other stakeholders 3 key areas: Industry / Professional Education Consumer |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Participation at stakeholder workshop B2B |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | I am participated at a workshop focusing on skills that address sustainability in the T&F industry. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Penalty Zones and International Sustainability Standards |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | Engagement focused website, blog or social media channel |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Media (as a channel to the public) |
| Results and Impact | Increasingly, sustainability standards are recognized as important tools for helping companies navigate the complex sustainability landscape. These standards help companies tackle their social and environmental challenges and serve as credible signals to stakeholders that they are doing the right thing, thus creating potential opportunities for the market to reward these companies. But what really happens when companies adopt multiple standards? Do companies' sustainability and market performance continue to improve? Not necessarily. Nicole Darnall, Kostas Iatridis, Effie Kesidou, and Annie Snelson-Powell's research shows that adopting multiple sustainability standards becomes "too-much-of-a-good-thing." |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://sites.duke.edu/thefinregblog/2023/10/25/penalty-zones-and-international-sustainability-stand... |
| Description | Presentation and participation in B2B launch event |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A formal working group, expert panel or dialogue |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | I am leading Thematic Area 2 on 'Generating Eco-Credential Standards.' In my presentation, I explained sustainability standards in general and sustainability standards in the F&T industry in particular. I emphasized the current challenges, which are related to the proliferation of standards, and presented evidence showing that sustainability standards generate environmental and economic benefits. I also focused on future challenges related to multiple sustainability standards and raised a key question: Are multiple sustainability standards beneficial?I concluded with a conceptual scenario analysis, attempting to provide a preliminary answer to this question. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Seminar presentation at Arizona State University, School of Sustainability |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | International |
| Primary Audience | Postgraduate students |
| Results and Impact | Although prior studies highlight the importance of standards for firm performance, little research has examined the role of multiple standards. Using insights from signaling theory and the resource-based view of the firm, this research examined whether firms that adopt multiple standards increase their export performance. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUHuCZmbSmg |
| Description | Stakeholder Workshop |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A formal working group, expert panel or dialogue |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | A New HE Skills Landscape for Circular Fashion and Textiles: Exploring the opportunities and challenges of aligning HE provision of circular fashion and textiles education with the industry needs Aim: To explore how HE can respond to the industry's need for accelerating the development of Knowledge and Skills in Sustainable and Circular F&T Themes: What graduate skills and knowledge are needed to support the design and development of sustainable and circular F&T? How well aligned are current graduate skills / knowledge in sustainable and circular F&T to the needs of the industry and where are the gaps? What opportunities are there for industry / academia to collaborate more effectively to support essential skills development for circular F&T, and what are the barriers? |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | TA1 Theme Leader presentation |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | Outlining the key issues in TA1 - Creating Evidence Bases and Determining Environmental Target Areas. Uncovering some of the misconceptions around measuring and reporting the environmental impact of clothing, especially regarding uncertainty regarding the metrics and values used by some actors in the system. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | Theme Area 3 Leader talk at B2B launch event 9th February 2024 |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Professional Practitioners |
| Results and Impact | A presentation was given covering the activities planned under Theme Area 3 for the Back2Baselines project. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2024 |
| Description | UKFT Sustainability Conference |
| Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
| Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
| Geographic Reach | National |
| Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
| Results and Impact | Keynote Presentation on navigating new fibres, their sustainability criteria and their practical application in UK manufacturing, compliant with a Net Zero future. Followed by a one-to-one panel discussion and Q&A. |
| Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2023 |
| URL | https://www.ukft.org/sustainableuktextiles23/ |