A multi-disciplinary approach to the characterisation of ancient leather processing in the Nile Valley during the Pharaonic era.

Lead Research Organisation: University of Northampton
Department Name: Institute of Creative Leather Technology

Abstract

Skin processing technology in Egypt and Nubia during the Pharaonic era (c.3000-30BC) is not well understood, nor
whether leather-making was a craft ascribed to a particular population group or region. This project will build upon existing
evidence, deploying multiple analytical approaches to identify hide types and processing substances of leather objects in
the British Museum collection.
Current understanding of secondary processing of leather (e.g. stitching, decoration and colouring) in ancient Egypt and
Nubia is quite comprehensive . In comparison, primary processing methods (i.e. materials and techniques used to convert
raw animal hides to leather), in particular during the pre-Roman period, are poorly understood . Similarly, we know very
little about the social context of leatherworking, or the location of local and regional ancient skin processing centres during
the Pharaonic era. Traditional opinion is that Egyptian leatherwork was more refined than contemporary Nubian material;
however recent Nubian finds suggest this may not be so .
This research would be timely in two areas. Firstly, advances in instrumentation mean we are more capable than ever of
analysing complex organic materials. Secondly, the PhD will contribute new evidence to the debate around
Egyptianisation, that is, the assumption that Nubian communities adopted Egyptian cultural practises in the latter part of the
second millennium BC .
Research questions
-What types of animal hides were selected and how were they prepared in Ancient Egypt and Nubia during the Pharaonic
period (c. 3000-30 BC)?
-Can distinctive traditions between Egyptian and Nubian skin processing be identified through examination of the material
and processing methods?
-Can certain hides and methods of preparation be associated with certain periods, or regions?
The findings will be contextualized by anthropological and experimental research in practical leather processing to address
technological 'how', experiential 'why' and cultural 'where' questions, thereby building a new understanding of Pharaonic
leatherwork and the possible role of distinct leather-making traditions in Egypt and Nubia.

Publications

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