eScent: The Future of Fragrance
Lead Research Organisation:
University of the Arts London
Department Name: Central Saint Martin's College
Abstract
This is a Follow-on Fund (FOF) project to the previously funded AHRC Knowledge Transfer Fellowship (KTF), Smell the Colour of the Rainbow that explored opportunities resulting from the PI's patented work on the eScent concept in the 'wellbeing' arena.
eScent is a patented concept suitable for an item of jewellery or technology embedded clothing with the ability to deliver fragrance on demand and in the right quantities. It contains solvent-free scent and a dispenser activated electronically to deliver specified aliquots of fragrance depending on a sensor or timer if the application is for fashion, wellbeing, healthcare, or environmental in nature (such as insect repellent).
The project aims to determine the product feasibility of eScent to new audiences and users in the fine fragrance industry. It will address the latest legislation in the fragrance industry and demonstrate the commercial viability of a cartridge microchip that stores up to six fragrances that can be worn in jewellery or clothing.
The PI will position eScent in the fragrance industry and evaluate the impact it could have on the fashion industry as it shows signs of merging with wearable technology markets. The PI will verify the competitiveness of the eScent concept as a 'disruptive technology' and determine the commercial potential of a cartridge microchip that can be worn in jewellery and 'smart clothing' as a solution to store a palette of fragrance ingredients with 'high odour value', which can be used at 'low dosage' levels to give a powerful fragrance contribution. In addition the PI will seek expertise and the latest guidelines and knowledge on fragrance legislation/regulations to promote the safe and positive use of fragrances amongst consumers and the wider population.
The non-academic partners include the British Society of Perfumers and PANDORA fine fragrance experts who will ensure knowledge transfer through various activities. The team includes a commercialization and technology transfer expert, fashion designers from France and the UK, a film animator and student involvement. A University startup will be the vehicle to commercialise the research and they own patents that protect the eScent concept in UK, China and pending in the USA.
The specific targets to be achieved by the end of the award will include a commercial evaluation report supported by an animation film with interviews from perfumers and experts in the fragrance and fashion industries.
The beneficiaries will include the international fragrance industry, the fashion industry, the general public with an interest in the changing face of modern day perfumery and the sense of smell.
The project will be disseminated with the help of the network of the British Society of Perfumery and at international fragrance forums and academic symposia. A website will be produced to disseminate a short animation film that introduces eScent as the new 'perfume bottle', along with design work and professional interviews for the market studies.
eScent is a patented concept suitable for an item of jewellery or technology embedded clothing with the ability to deliver fragrance on demand and in the right quantities. It contains solvent-free scent and a dispenser activated electronically to deliver specified aliquots of fragrance depending on a sensor or timer if the application is for fashion, wellbeing, healthcare, or environmental in nature (such as insect repellent).
The project aims to determine the product feasibility of eScent to new audiences and users in the fine fragrance industry. It will address the latest legislation in the fragrance industry and demonstrate the commercial viability of a cartridge microchip that stores up to six fragrances that can be worn in jewellery or clothing.
The PI will position eScent in the fragrance industry and evaluate the impact it could have on the fashion industry as it shows signs of merging with wearable technology markets. The PI will verify the competitiveness of the eScent concept as a 'disruptive technology' and determine the commercial potential of a cartridge microchip that can be worn in jewellery and 'smart clothing' as a solution to store a palette of fragrance ingredients with 'high odour value', which can be used at 'low dosage' levels to give a powerful fragrance contribution. In addition the PI will seek expertise and the latest guidelines and knowledge on fragrance legislation/regulations to promote the safe and positive use of fragrances amongst consumers and the wider population.
The non-academic partners include the British Society of Perfumers and PANDORA fine fragrance experts who will ensure knowledge transfer through various activities. The team includes a commercialization and technology transfer expert, fashion designers from France and the UK, a film animator and student involvement. A University startup will be the vehicle to commercialise the research and they own patents that protect the eScent concept in UK, China and pending in the USA.
The specific targets to be achieved by the end of the award will include a commercial evaluation report supported by an animation film with interviews from perfumers and experts in the fragrance and fashion industries.
The beneficiaries will include the international fragrance industry, the fashion industry, the general public with an interest in the changing face of modern day perfumery and the sense of smell.
The project will be disseminated with the help of the network of the British Society of Perfumery and at international fragrance forums and academic symposia. A website will be produced to disseminate a short animation film that introduces eScent as the new 'perfume bottle', along with design work and professional interviews for the market studies.
Planned Impact
The following organisations who might benefit from this research include International organisations such as the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) in Belgium who focus on the advocacy side for the industry, and the Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (RIFM) in the USA, who focus more on the research and science for the safe use of the individual materials. The PI's research has already been endorsed by RFIM for 'sending out a very positive message for the fragrance industry' (Marie Gartshore, Communications Manager 2010), the Fragrance Foundation USA (as a Fifi award nominee 2006) and the Scent Marketing Institute in the USA.
In addition, the research should benefit the international perfume houses; Givaudan, Firmenich, International Flavours & Fragrances, COTY, P&G Prestige, Chanel Parfums, Takasago, Symrise, Unilever and the much smaller British perfume houses such as Phoneix Fragrances and Floris. It should also benefit individual niche perfumers such as Le Labo Fragrances (USA), John Bailey (UK), perfumery blog 'Sniffapalooza' (USA), Natural Perfumers Guild and 'Scratch n' Sniff' public events (London), and the commercial fashion sector including brands who have already launched non technological jewellery pieces containing their own perfume range (in solid form), including Thierry Mugler ("Angel") and Stella McCartney ("Stella").
Furthermore, the research could benefit politicians including Julian Huppert, a biotechnology scientist, Member of Parliament for Cambridge and active supporter of high-tech start-ups, entrepreneurs and 'wellbeing' issues, in addition to the media who can relay the social and economic benefits of this research, including the technology and 'gadget' press (WIRED), beauty/fashion press covering latest trends in perfumery and legislation (Vogue/Harpers Bazaar), fragrance journalists and daily press covering safety issues of perfumery.
This research has the potential to contribute to the nation's health because it promotes the safe use of fragrances and sends out a clear message to consumers. It achieves this by introducing a new delivery system that addresses many issues faced in modern day perfumery, high-lighting the relevance of the industry and wider benefits of smell to the public. This impact will be achieved when the PI presents the research at the World Perfumery Congress in France in June 2014 and IFRA's fragrance forum at the Royal Society in October 2014
The research also fosters economic competitiveness of the UK because it places British perfumery innovation and entrepreneurship on a global platform. It enhances creative and cultural outputs with the global luxury/lifestyle consumer goods sectors (Richemont, LVMH) and encourages licensing agreements so that the proceeds from the successful development benefits the UK economy through a company start-up (a collaborator in this project) and growth, job creation and IPR income. License deals to fund follow-on growth prospect and a creative eScent house in other innovative sensory products covered by the patents is already being planned with international designers and perfumers. More recently the patented research is of interest to a 'wearable electronics' clothing market looking for added functionality as a means to sell perfume in luxury garments
The research prevents the need to spray alcoholic solutions of fragrance ingredients onto skin. This reduces the risk of potential reactions (itchy, burning, scaly, redness), resulting from exposure to skin irritants (irritant contact dermatitis) and chemical irritants such as solvents in standard 'eau de toilette' perfumes (97% ethanol). It delivers significant economic impact to NHS dermatology (reducing cost of drug treatments, lotions) and social impact to the public (self-consciousness) and could revolutionise the way in which the public apply and use fragrance, experience scent and enjoy the positive effects of scent in enhancing our personal wellbeing
In addition, the research should benefit the international perfume houses; Givaudan, Firmenich, International Flavours & Fragrances, COTY, P&G Prestige, Chanel Parfums, Takasago, Symrise, Unilever and the much smaller British perfume houses such as Phoneix Fragrances and Floris. It should also benefit individual niche perfumers such as Le Labo Fragrances (USA), John Bailey (UK), perfumery blog 'Sniffapalooza' (USA), Natural Perfumers Guild and 'Scratch n' Sniff' public events (London), and the commercial fashion sector including brands who have already launched non technological jewellery pieces containing their own perfume range (in solid form), including Thierry Mugler ("Angel") and Stella McCartney ("Stella").
Furthermore, the research could benefit politicians including Julian Huppert, a biotechnology scientist, Member of Parliament for Cambridge and active supporter of high-tech start-ups, entrepreneurs and 'wellbeing' issues, in addition to the media who can relay the social and economic benefits of this research, including the technology and 'gadget' press (WIRED), beauty/fashion press covering latest trends in perfumery and legislation (Vogue/Harpers Bazaar), fragrance journalists and daily press covering safety issues of perfumery.
This research has the potential to contribute to the nation's health because it promotes the safe use of fragrances and sends out a clear message to consumers. It achieves this by introducing a new delivery system that addresses many issues faced in modern day perfumery, high-lighting the relevance of the industry and wider benefits of smell to the public. This impact will be achieved when the PI presents the research at the World Perfumery Congress in France in June 2014 and IFRA's fragrance forum at the Royal Society in October 2014
The research also fosters economic competitiveness of the UK because it places British perfumery innovation and entrepreneurship on a global platform. It enhances creative and cultural outputs with the global luxury/lifestyle consumer goods sectors (Richemont, LVMH) and encourages licensing agreements so that the proceeds from the successful development benefits the UK economy through a company start-up (a collaborator in this project) and growth, job creation and IPR income. License deals to fund follow-on growth prospect and a creative eScent house in other innovative sensory products covered by the patents is already being planned with international designers and perfumers. More recently the patented research is of interest to a 'wearable electronics' clothing market looking for added functionality as a means to sell perfume in luxury garments
The research prevents the need to spray alcoholic solutions of fragrance ingredients onto skin. This reduces the risk of potential reactions (itchy, burning, scaly, redness), resulting from exposure to skin irritants (irritant contact dermatitis) and chemical irritants such as solvents in standard 'eau de toilette' perfumes (97% ethanol). It delivers significant economic impact to NHS dermatology (reducing cost of drug treatments, lotions) and social impact to the public (self-consciousness) and could revolutionise the way in which the public apply and use fragrance, experience scent and enjoy the positive effects of scent in enhancing our personal wellbeing
People |
ORCID iD |
Jennifer Tillotson (Principal Investigator) |
Publications
Tillotson J
(2017)
Emotionally Responsive Wearable Technology and Stress Detection for Affective Disorders.
in Psychiatria Danubina
Silina Y
(2017)
Storage and controlled release of fragrances maintaining a constant ratio of volatile compounds
in Analytical Methods
Title | eScent - A New Dimension |
Description | A film funded by an Arts & Humanities Research Council (AHRC) 'Impact & Engagement' commercialisation Award. June 2015. eScent research by Dr Jenny Tillotson, a Reader in Sensory Fashion at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Directed, written and produced by Limetools Ltd. The film shows a range of exciting areas of application of the eScent technology, which is a wearable fragrances device. It demonstrates how design thinking and enquiry, paired with technology can lead to new and innovative products that can make real positive impact to our lives. Embedded discreetly in jewellery or clothing, eScent® forms a localised and non-invasive 'scent bubble' around the face. It creates an area of constant, detectable scent for the user based on a timer, biometric feedback or pre-programmed from a smartphone, augmenting how we as humans interact with the physical world around us. This enabling platform technology senses and emits fragrances depending on the situation and can be deployed in multiple solutions across markets sectors including wellbeing ('Quantified Self'), fashion, fragrances for luxury brands, retail, gaming, entertainment and insect control. The film describes the benefits of eScent as an interruptive platform technology that addresses current legislation issues faced by the rapidly changing fragrance industry (i.e. increased allergens, skin sensitization). It presents a simple concept supported by multiple AHRB/C awards that not only promises to impact on many fields and have a genuinely huge commercial potential, but could create an entirely new perfumery market and benefit the wider population by increasing wellbeing through fragrances. |
Type Of Art | Film/Video/Animation |
Year Produced | 2014 |
Impact | The film was produced to validate the commercial potential of the intellectual property of the eScent product in the fragrance industry. It followed on from three previous awards; an AHRC Knowledge Transfer Fellowship with Philips; 'Smell The Colour of the Rainbow', an AHRC Innovation Award with Professor Andreas Manz; 'eScent' (Scent Whisper) and an AHRB Small Award; 'SmartSecondSkin'). The notable impacts are that it led to new patent applications and fragrance partners. |
URL | https://vimeo.com/129600358 |
Description | This award was instrumental in developing the notion of AI-powered personalised scent for fashion applications and also as a wearable, self-delivered intervention for mental distress, for example, delivered once an intelligent system has detected an increase in stress or other parameters. The invention will lead to a new market and the delivery of fine fragrance to enhance experiences. The findings led to a pending PCT application likely to grant in 2021. By calculating the average human nasal detection threshold level of a fragrance, vapour density and diffusion speed from the central point in a wearable device, it is also possible to sustain a localised "bubble" at a constant size, introducing new techniques for therapeutic scent dispersal or other medicinal liquids. For further info please see https://www.escent.ai/ |
Exploitation Route | Commercialised as fashion and wellness products through Dr Tillotson's company Sensory Design & Technology Ltd |
Sectors | Chemicals Digital/Communication/Information Technologies (including Software) Electronics Healthcare Leisure Activities including Sports Recreation and Tourism Manufacturing including Industrial Biotechology |
URL | https://the-disability-download.simplecast.com/episodes/episode-6-is-fashion-accessible-enough |
Description | It has led to a new patent application in a wearable personalised scent and interest from the fragrance industry |
Sector | Creative Economy,Healthcare,Leisure Activities, including Sports, Recreation and Tourism |
Impact Types | Cultural Societal |
Description | eScent mask for personal protective assurance: a human-centred approach to PPE in the post COVID-19 world |
Amount | £174,942 (GBP) |
Funding ID | 76130 |
Organisation | Innovate UK |
Sector | Public |
Country | United Kingdom |
Start | 08/2020 |
End | 07/2021 |
Title | A System And Method For Dispensing Fluid In Response To A Sensed Property |
Description | The present invention relates to a wearable system and method for dispensing fluid in response to various sounds. Details methods to dispense liquids around wearable items |
IP Reference | US 2018/0093288 A1 |
Protection | Patent application published |
Year Protection Granted | |
Licensed | No |
Impact | This patent will shortly grant and be exploited via Dr Tillotson's company Sensory Design & Technology Ltd |
Title | LIQUID DISPENSING SYSTEM CREATING AND MAINTAINING A PERSONALISED BUBBLE WITH A DEFINED RADIUS AND CONCENTRATION |
Description | A method and device for creating and maintaining a personalised bubble of scent, the method comprising: providing a wearable device comprising a perfume reservoir, a perfume dispenser coupled to the perfume reservoir, and a controller to dispense a volume of perfume from the device at intervals; controlling said wearable device to dispense a pulse volume of scent from said perfume reservoir at a pulse interval; and determining said pulse volume and said pulse interval to maintain a mass per unit volume concentration of said perfume above a threshold level within a defined radius from said wearable device. |
IP Reference | WO2019025763 |
Protection | Patent application published |
Year Protection Granted | 2019 |
Licensed | No |
Impact | The patent is owned by Dr Jenny Tillotson's company Sensory Design & Technology Ltd, it builds on and AHRC Impact and Engagement Award in 2014 and an InnovateUk Voucher award in 2015. Further IP is being developed as a result of this patent and will be reported in due course. |
Title | SYSTEM AND METHOD FOR DISPENSING FLUID IN RESPONSE TO A SENSED PROPERTY |
Description | A system for dispensing fluid in response to a sensed property such as an ambient sound comprises a sensor (2) for detecting one or more properties, a processing stage for determining if the one or more sensed properties is/are within a predetermined range and/or above and/or below a predetermined level and dispenser (6) for dispensing a fluid into an area surrounding the system if the one or more sensed properties is/are determined by the processing stage to be within a predetermined range and/or above and/or below a predetermined level and/or value. |
IP Reference | US2010286803 |
Protection | Patent granted |
Year Protection Granted | 2010 |
Licensed | No |
Impact | This awarded USA patent is owned by Dr Tillotson's company Sensory Design & Technology Ltd, building on an AHRC Impact and Engagement Award 2014. Further IP is being developed as a result of this patent will be reported in due course. |
Description | Interview |
Form Of Engagement Activity | A talk or presentation |
Part Of Official Scheme? | No |
Geographic Reach | National |
Primary Audience | Industry/Business |
Results and Impact | Interview undertaken by RSA to other RSA Fellows 2021 which sparked much interest in research. |
Year(s) Of Engagement Activity | 2021 |
URL | https://www.thersa.org/comment/2022/02/scenting-our-way-to-wellbeing?utm_campaign=newsletter&utm_med... |