Grow your own textiles: Fostering a circular economy through self sufficiency.

The purpose of this DTA is to (objectively) explore the impact of 'homegrown' natural cellulosic fibres across the entirety of the life-cycle.

In 2020 the UKRI has announced a £22.5 million government investment to promote a more circular economy. Textiles and the fashion industry are a priority, as they are the 4th largest sector that has a significant impact on climate change (UKRI, 2020).
Currently the textile and fashion industry are dominated by a linear model (take-make-dispose), which brings forward a variety of sustainability (economic, social, environmental) issues. The circular economy is seen to counteract various of these negative implications by re-looping materials back into the supply chain and making more use of idle capacities. Yet, it was pointed out that "it is very much less easy to progress from theory to practice and there is a need for substantial technological, organisational and institutional innovation" (EPSRC, 2019: 1). This can be achieved by combining life-cycle assessment, with circular thinking, and textile technology, as issues cannot be addressed in isolation, but needs an interdisciplinary perspective (Gallego-Schmid et al., 2020; Henninger et al., 2020)
We have seen an increase of natural cellulosic fibres (e.g. flax) that can be grown within the EU/EEA in an attempt to promote self-sufficiency of regions and reduce the overall environmental impact of fibres on the natural and social environment. What currently remains under-researched is the overarching impact of these 'homegrown' cellulosic fibres through the entirety of the life-cycle.
This interdisciplinary project combines circular business model innovations, Life-Cycle Assessment (LCA), and textile technology, through the following aspects:

1. Dyeing Process of natural cellulosic fibres (e.g. flax) and impact on LCA
Expanding on research by the EEA (2021) this project will provide new insights into the environmental impacts of natural cellulosic fibres (e.g. flax) through a two-phase process. Phase 1 explores different dyeing processes (reactive, direct, natural) and their effectiveness and suitability to colour natural cellulosic fibres. Phase 2 conducts a comparative LCA of 1kg of woven cellulosic fibres (e.g. flax) that is untreated, with 1 kg of woven cellulosic fibres (e.g. flax) that has been dyed (one sample per dyeing process: reactive, direct, natural).

2. Stakeholder mapping and engagement
Based on the results from the LCA and in-line with bridging theory and practice this project conducts a stakeholder mapping exercise, by further exploring the feasibility of creating a circular economy that not only allows for self- and resource efficiency, but also outlines potential challenges and solutions.

- EPSRC Priority: Sustainable Industries
- EPSRC Theme: Manufacturing for the Future
- EPSRC Research Area Classification: Resource Efficiency; Manufacturing Technology

This project aligns with a key priority identified by the EPSRC of sustainable industries and focuses on the current topic of the circular economy and being able create a sustainable future.

This project addresses a key area, as it focuses on the second most polluting industry, after the oil industry (WRAP, 2020a, b), which has seen a call for fostering a more circular economy and including stakeholders in the process. In looking at this challenge this project draws upon textile technology to stimulate understand the impact of dyeing processes on LCA, whilst furthermore provides detailed insights into LCA and explores commercial viability and stakeholder buy-in.

This project therefore addresses a variety of EPSRC objectives, which concern 'advanced manufacturing, increasing efficiency, speeding up innovation, and enabling new business models and technologies'.